Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

Seiobodoesfinedininglikenooneelse,concernednotwithfussor

fronting,butwithexploringthebreadthofcuisinesintheCaribbean,

unpickingthreadsofflavourinhome-styledishesandspinningthem

withAustralianproducetocreatesomethingentirelynew.Therangeis

impressive,branchingoutfromchefPaulCarmichael’srootsinBarbados

andPuertoRicointowiderislandterritory–Haitiancreoletopscrispgreen

banana,andcoconutrundown,aTobagonianspecialty,underscores

Tasmanianseaurchinbrightenedwithhorseradish.Moreimpressiveis

theevolution.Whereoncemarronwassplitandgrilledovercharcoaland

decoratedwithleaves,bellsandwhistles,it’snowchopped,piledinto

abowlandsaucedinaspicy,chunkyPuertoRican-stylesofrito.Fried

coconutbakesshoweredinfreshcoconutcomealongsidefordabbing

andmopping.Acentralkitchenbackedbyagleamingcabinetstacked

withtropicalproducekeepsthefocushereandnow,sta„presenting

disheswithdeepknowledgeoforiginsandpreparations,thedrinks

o„erbrightandexciting.Thisisdiningfreedfromconvention,humble

andelevatedallatonce,athirdway.Whatatimetobealive.

TheStar, 80 PyrmontSt,

Pyrmont,NSW

(02) 96579169

seiobo.momofuku.com

+DinnerMon-Sat

6pm-10pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed,bar

+Tastingmenu$185

+CardsAEDCMCVEFT

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ChefPaulCarmichael

2 MomofukuSeiobo W V CARIBBEAN

NowhereatQuayistheinterplayoftextureandrareingredientsso

strikingthaninasmallbowlofhand-harvestedseafooddressedwith

virginsoysauce,agedbrownricevinegarandlaver.Coatingbuttery

scallops,crunchybabyoctopus,slipperystrawberryclamsandcrisp

sliversofpalmheart,thedressingenhancesandunderlineseach

aspect.Asawhole,it’scomplete;alessonintasteandjudgement.

Andthisisjustoneinaflurryofcourses,eachpresentedtoabackdrop

ofHarbour,BridgeandHouseinaspacethat’sstillrevellinginthe

lightnessgiventoitbylastyear’srenovation.It’sbig-ticketstu„,andthe

sta„aresuitablyinformedandgenerous,thedrinkso„erextensive,

theset-piecestimedtothesecond.Precisionrulesonthemenu,too:

marron,prisedfromitsshell,isfilledwithyuzujamandtoppedwith

shellfishemulsionandabloomofedibleflowers;porkjowl,softand

giving,iscrownedwithcurlsofabaloneandservedwitharichpig’s

trotterbroth.Truthonthepalate,beautyontheplate,alittlelevityinthe

desserts–Quaystillholdscourtwithpompandceremony.Bowdown.

Upperlevel,Overseas

PassengerTerminal,

TheRocks,NSW

(02) 92515600

quay.com.au

+ LunchFri-Sun

noon-1.30pm;

dinnerdaily6pm-9pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed

+ 6-10coursetasting

menus$225-$285

+CardsAEDCMCVEFT

+Privateroom

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ ChefsPeterGilmore,Troy

Crisante&TimMifsud

3 Quay V AUSTRALIAN

Atticahasbeenaninteresting,compellingrestaurantformorethan

adecade,butinthepasttwoyearsNewZealand-bornchefandowner

BenShewryhasdeepenedhisengagementwithfirstAustralians.

IndigenousfoodandcultureisnowatthecentreoftheAtticaexperience,

andit’sevenmorethrillingtoseethismeaningfulprojectrenderedwith

suchjoy,integrityand–thankgoodness–seriouscommitmentto

everythingbeingdelicious.Amealmaybeginwithasmorgasbordoflocal

fruitsandherbs,aseatedforagingthatsetsthetoneforthe 13 coursesto

come.Onward,perhaps,toemuliverparfaitbrushedwithtartDavidson’s

plumjam,crocodileribstobepickedupandgnawedwithfinger-licking

informality,andatriooftartsthatacknowledges–inbloodpudding,

chickensoupjellyandnativecitrus–thevariouswavesofpeoplewho

havelivedinthisneighbourhood.Intuitive,intelligentserviceandinspired

alcoholicandteetotallingdrinkmatchesaredeliveredwithadelighted

gleethatissomuchpartofthissingularrestaurant’sappeal.

74 GlenEiraRd,

Ripponlea,Vic

(03) 95300111

attica.com.au

+ DinnerTue-Sat

6pm-10pm

+Bookingsessential

+Licensed

+Tastingmenu$295

+CardsAEMCVEFT

+ChefBenShewry

1 Attica W V AUSTRALIAN

100 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY JASON LOUCAS MOMOFUKU SEIOBO & NIKKI TO QUAY.

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