GOURMET TRAVELLER 159Amanbagh, Rajasthan
This modern Mughal palace in a fertile valley about two hours’ drive north-
east of Jaipur redefines accepted notions of serenity. The elegant symmetry of
architect Ed Tuttle’s design, wrought in marble, sandstone and dozens of domes
and set in idyllic grounds shaded by eucalypts and palms, immediately casts a
spell. Guests are welcomed with a sung prayer to Vishnu that echoes around
Amanbagh’s stone reception hall like a mantra. Staff tie blessings to guests’
wrists and offer infusions of fennel, basil and ginger from the organic garden.
The 37 suites are capacious pavilions split between bathrooms – each
with baths carved from single chunks of Udaipur green marble – and
supremely comfortable sleeping quarters. The effect of so much stone –
pink Rajasthani and Makrana marble (as seen in the Taj Mahal), Dholpur
sandstone, and Udaipur green – is timeless and sublime.
There are no televisions but also no shortage of entertainment. Perhaps
lamplit dinners on a courtyard above the pool or in a silk-curtained chattri
canopy set with a maharajah’s banquet of tandoor-roasted chicken with rice
and dhal makhani. Join yoga classes, camel polo or evening aarti rituals; submit
to spa sessions or arrange excursions to the abandoned city of Bhangarh, its
sandstone temples and royal residences the inspiration for Tuttle’s design. And
there’s wildlife spotting in Sariska Tiger Reserve, about 45 minutes’ drive away.
Amanbagh’s appeal lies in such “undiscovered experiences”, says general
manager Karin van Zyl. “None of it is scripted for us. Every day is different
because of what’s happening in the villages. We might have five Jeeps go
out but all on different roads – to see weddings, funerals, the okra harvest,
a baby goat being born.” Ajabgarh, Rajasthan, aman.com Amanbagh’s swimming pool.
Above, from left: door detail
on an Amanbagh pool
pavilion, and the lobby.