Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

(Brent) #1
SYDNEY At Ragazzi, the new CBD venture
for Dear Saint Éloise’s Matt Swieboda and
Nathanial Hatwell, chef Scott Williams (Bacco)
matches a strong pasta-heavy menu with the
Italian wine list: think tajarin cacio e pepe
with pink peppercorns paired with Domaine
Valette Vire Clesse Et Pourtant chardonnay
andlasagneofbeefcheekandhorseradish
withPodereSanteMarieRossoDiMontalcino
sangioveseorthehoneypannacottawith
rhubarbandrosemarygranitawithafizzy
CarussinFilariCortimoscato.
StefanoManfredi’sPizzaperta,which
closeditsPyrmontlocationlastyear,is
nowservingitsmargheritaandother
classicslicesatWestHQinRootyHill.
Thedevelopment’s 550-seatEatStreet
complexalsoincludesSeanConnolly’s
Steak&CoandChu,thenewrestaurant
fortheChinaDollteam.

MELBOURNE The Waiting Room at
Southbank’s Crown Towers Melbourne
has turned into R Bar. The all-day menu
includes harissa prosciutto eggs, mushroom
with roasted capsicum and Manchego, Lune
Croissanterie pastries at breakfast and killer
sandwiches, as well as caviar service, oysters
andJoselitojamónibéricofromitsproduce
counter.Barrel-agedcocktailsrulethedrinks
list,withNegronis,OldFashionedsandother
classicsleftforatleastamonthincasks
repurposedfromSeppeltsfieldwineryand
WoodfoodReservewhiskey.
AlsoinSouthbank:thenewbarand
distilleryforindependentgin-makerPatient
WolfDistillingCo.Dropinforatasteofits
boutiquerangewhichincludesBlackthorn
GinmadewithberriespickedfromTasmania,
stockuponsomedistillery-onlyspecial
releasesorbookinforaginmasterclass.

CALIFORNIA At Birdie G’s, the new Santa
Monica restaurant by vegetable whisperer
Jeremy Fox, family is a big influence. The
name is a tribute to his daughter Birdie and
grandmother Gladys, whose dishes he’s tried
to recreate, from memory, on the menu. His
wife Rachael has contributed recipes, too,
suchasamatzoballsoupwithcarrotmiso.
OtherAmerican-inspireddishesinclude
rosepetalandpretzelpie,PassmoreRanch
caviarwithpotatowa›es,andanentire
menudedicatedtobutteryTexastoast.

LONDONJamesLowe(Lyle’s)iscalling
Flor,hisnewwinery/bakery/restaurant,
“Lyle’slittlesister”.LocatednearBorough
Market,itservesanchovytoastwithcured
noirdebigorrehamandwildmarjoram,
scarletprawnswithyuzukoshoandmany
bakedgoods,suchasbrownbuttercakes.

RESTAURANT NEWS

R Bar’s Martinis.
Left, from top:
sweetbreads and
Texas toast at
Birdie G’s;
Pizzaperta’s
Margherita pizza.

Join us for an Iberian getaway at Gourmet Traveller’s APT reader dinner on 23 October
at Melbourne’s Bar Lourinhã. Matt McConnell’s menu includes anchovy montadito,
prawn croquetas, blood orange crema and more. $115 per person including matching
wines. To book, see obee.com.au/barlourinha/e/iberian-escape-gourmet-traveller

28 GOURMET TRAVELLER


PHOTOGRAPHY JIM SULLIVAN £BIRDIE G’S¤.
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