Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

andsommelierBarisYaglipinarhavegradually

increasedthenumberofTurkishbottleson

thelisttothepointthatit nowconsistsalmost

entirelyofwinesfromtheirhomeland.Thewinery

namesandgrapevarieties– okuzgozu,bogazkere,

karasakiz– canbechallenging,butUysalsays

hehasbeenimpressedbyhowopen-mindedhis

customershavebeen.

“Whenpeoplewalkinandseethereareno

kebabsordipsonthemenu,theyknowthey’renot

inthekindofTurkishrestaurantthey’reusedto,”

hesays.“Wedon’tserveespressoandcappuccino,

justTurkishcoffee.Therestaurantis allabout

offeringa trueTurkishexperience.Whenpeople

ordera wine,wealwayssay,wouldyoulikea taste

first?Eventhoughit’s oftentotallydifferentfrom

whatthey’reexpecting,theyloveit:I havepeoplecall

thenextdayandaskwherecantheybuya bottle.”

SinceMary’sUndergroundopenedinMay,

CaitlynReeshasalsobeenencouragedbyhowdiners

havetakenherorganic,wild-fermented,low-sulphur

winesintheirstride.Shesaysthepredominantly

youngercrowdaregenerallyquiteenvironmentally

aware,andmanyalreadyknowMary’shasa strong

natural-wineculture.

“I havehadsomepeopleintherestaurantindustry

saythat,becausewe’reintheCBD,weshouldbe

listingmorefamiliar,big-namewines,”saysRees.

“Andlook,we’dprobablydogoodbusinesswith

thecitycrowdif wemadethosekindsofconcessions.

ButI thinkif youmakedecisionsaboutyourwine

listjustbasedonbusiness,youcanlosesightofwho

youareandwhatyoubelievein.”

Top

drops

of

the

month

2018 AphelionThe

VerdantGrenache,

McLarenVale,$40

Mypickoffiveverygood

grenaches,varietalsand

blends,fromthisnew

producer.Grapesfrom

sandyBlewittSprings

soilsresultinaraspberry-

fruited,juicywine.

aphelionwine.com.au

UJ

CI

Y

GR

EN

AC

HE

2016 Domaine

Jean-ClaudeMarsanne,

SaintJoseph,$81

Thisrivalswinefrom

HermitageandCote-

Rotie:Ripeblackberries

squishedontogravelly

soilandsprinkledwith

brownpeppercorns.

Delicious.

randalls.net.au

IR

HC

RE

D

TeelingWhiskey

24-Year-OldSingle

Malt,Dublin,$600

NamedBestSingle

Maltatthe 2019

WorldWhiskiesAwards:

complexflavoursofgrilled

nutsandwholewheat

andcitrusandspice

tumbleoutoftheglass.

danmurphys.com.au

WA

RA

D

W

IN

NI

NG

HunterandtheHarp

EmbarkmentMead,

SouthCoastNSW,$22

Imagineacloudypet-nat

sparklingwinedelicately

flavouredwithwild

hedgerowblackberryand

lemonmyrtleandyou’ve

gotangoodideawhat

thismeadtasteslike.

hunterandtheharp.com.au

W

LI

D

M

EA

D

2019 TimAdams

Riesling,Clare

Valley,$24

It’salwaysajoywhenthe

firstyoungClarerieslings

appearinbottleafew

monthsaftervintageeach

year,especiallywhen

they’reaslime-juicyand

asslatey-dryasthisone.

timadamswines.com.au

OY

NU

G

RI

ES

LI

NG

GOURMET TRAVELLER 47

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN HANSEN CAITLYN REES.

Drinks