Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

BEST NEW TALENT

Alanna Sapwell

ArcDining,Brisbane

F

orsomechefsanawardisalicencetoslip

thefootothepedalandhaveabreather.

Forothers,likeAlannaSapwell,accolades

areaspurtodigdeep,redoubleeortsand

encourageyourteamtosoarhigheryet.

“It’salwaysincredibletoberecognisedbutwiththat

comesexpectations,”saysSapwell,headchefofBrisbane’s

stylishArcDiningandWineBar.“Bumsonseatshelp–but

it’sonlyanygoodifthosedinerexpectationsaremet.”

SincestartingaskitchenheadatHowardSmith

Wharves’flagshipvenueinFebruary,Sapwellhas

eortlesslyexceededexpectations.It’sbeenastellar

returnhometoQueenslandfortheSunshineCoast-raised

chef,whoquitaplumroleasheadchefatSydney’sSaint

Petertohelmtheriversidedestination.

Hercookingstyleismarkedbyalighthand,

anchoredbyclassicalnousandanappetiteforhard

work–shewasanapprenticeunderNoosa-basedchef

DavidRaynerandservedinheadandsous-chefpositions

inJapanandItaly,aswellasfillingseniorrolesintop
Brisbanerestaurants.HerkitchenatArcreflectsher
regardfortraditionanddoingthingsproperly.It’sasous
vide-freezonetoensurehersquadlearnsthebasics,
notshortcuts,withstapleslikebuttermadein-house
tonurtureskillsandcreativity.
Arc’smenuisbright,confidentandintunewithits
location,butit’sSapwell’sabilitytocoaxdiners(andsta)
toaccompanyheroninterestingdetoursthat’sdelivering
dividendsforQueenslanddining–thismayinvolveserving
lesser-knowncatchlikerosyjobfish,makingcharcuterie
inhouseortreatingfruitandvegetablesinnewways–
fermentingpersimmon,creamingleekswithbeeswax,
ordeployingcranberryhibiscusincrabmiangkham.
Sapwell’scleverrisonclassics–anever-changing
housecakecoatedwithfingerlimesprinkles,ornoodles
conjuredfromgrilledsquidwithpreservedlimeand
saltbushdressing–arefurthertestamenttoherbreadth
PHOTOGRAPHY PETER BENNETTS —DI STASIO CITTÀ™ & PANDORA PHOTOGRAPHY —ALANNA SAPWELL™. andflair.Talenttoburn,andshe’sjustgettingstarted.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 71