Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

(Brent) #1

BEST DESIGN


Di Stasio Città


Melbourne


T


hesuperpowerof
anygreatmaîtred’
ismakingeverybody
intheroombelieve
it’smainlyaboutthem.Joanna
Smithhasthepower.Sheused
ittogreateectwhenworking
forAaronTurneratLoamand
hashonedittoafineartat
Igni,whichsheco-ownswith
herformerboss.It’sagreat
doubleact.Turnerrunsacalm
kitchen,andSmith’stalentis
toalwaysappearunrushed,
fullyfocusedandfullyengaged

withwhoevershe’sinteracting
withatthetime,evenifthe
roomisfullofpunterssimilarly
convincedthatthey’rethe
solefocusofherattention.
Thisismadepossiblenotjust
becauseSmithhasassembled
awell-trainedteamwhofollow
hercalmandassuredlead,but
becausethere’snothingcynical
inherapproach.Herinnate
senseofhospitalitymeans
thatyou,andeverybodyelse
intheroom,reallyareher
favouritecustomers.

MAÎTRED’OFTHEYEAR


JoannaSmith


Igni,Victoria


I


t’s the art you notice fi rst: the neon-fabulous mural
by artist Reko Rennie outside Di Stasio Città – the
restaurant’s only form of signage – and then the
jittery, looping video art inside by Rennie and
Shaun Gladwell. But there’s craft in the Hassell-designed,
temple-like interior too – the hand-poured terrazzo fl oor,
polished plaster walls, white marble bar, red leather chairs
and Murano glass chandeliers that fl oat like marine life
above the bathrooms. Città is a skilful, seamless blend of
gallery and restaurant, one that makes it logical to be
drinking a Martini served on a silver tray while art formerly
shown in the Australian Pavilion at the Venice Biennale
splashes the room with the colours of the desert. Add a few
techy fl ourishes – the button-operated sliding doors at the
entranceandinthebathrooms–anditalladdsuptoa
transportingspace;unique,beautifulandawholelotoffun.

76 GOURMET TRAVELLER


PHOTOGRAPHY ANDRE COSTELLUCCI —JOCK ZONFRILLO & ORANA INTERIORSœ & JULIAN KINGMA —DI STASIO CITTÀ & JOANNA SMITHœ.
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