Imitationisthesincerestformofflattery,butAndrewMcConnellistoo
creative to slavishly follow the rule book. On face value, Japan is the
touchstone for Supernormal, both in the aesthetic – vending machines;
individual light boxes for every place at the bar – as well as the influence
present in many dishes. But this approach is mixed with the chef’s devotion
to flavour, no matter its origins. Spot the signature pot-stickers making their
way to every table, then order your own. Follow them up with lamb
shoulder, braised for eight hours and presented with sesame-crusted
flatbread to dip into a Sichuan pepper broth. From the raw bar, ubiquitous
kingfish sashimi becomes something to write home about, with mandarin
dashi and a rue of hijiki seaweed providing punch. The floor team ably
balance duty and fun, showing just enough care without smothering
you, while consideration abounds on the menu, with a page of sta
recommendations from the hefty wine list and helpful explainers of
the dierent sake styles. Welcome to the world of Andrew McConnell:
free-wheeling, fun, flavour-forward and far better than any carbon copy.180 Flinders La,
Melbourne, Vic
(03) 9650 8688
supernormal.net.au+ Sun-Thu 11am-11pm,
Fri-Sat 11am-midnight
+ Bookings recommended
for lunch, for 6+ only
at dinner
+Licensed, bar
+ E $16-$32 M $36-$43
D $12-16; banquets $69-$95
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Private room
+Wheelchair friendly
+ Chefs Andrew McConnell
& Perry Schagen49 Supernormal V ASIAN
Gaugestartedlifeasadynamicdaytimedestination,thenmorphedintoan
ambitious restaurant space for four nights of the week. Now the tables have
turned. The elegant café fit-out remains, but brunches and lunches have
been sidelined to weekends and its status as Brisbane’s poster boy for
big-flavoured, inventive and intricate dining has been cemented. Sta
continue to overdeliver, ditto the clipped and mainly Australian drinks list,
which tilts towards the lesser-known with juicy amber wines at its heart.
Snacks are stellar – freeform chicken-skin crackers with anchovy cream
or fluy sebago loaded into a crisp potato shell and topped with potent
malt vinegar cream and a savoury snow of cured egg yolk. There’s a briny
theme to many dishes. Mussel cream with yuzu ties together an elegant
tangle of cuttlefish and kohlrabi noodles, while Spanish mackerel fillets,
lightly salt-encrusted and blush-centred, are served over diced celeriac
with roasted hazelnuts. Bright orange tobiko crowns a lamb tartare
dotted with pale scallop, finger lime and tarragon, keeping interest levels
piqued. Desserts are refined; consider the poached pear with a dulce
de leche-style caramel ricotta and celeriac ice-cream. By any measure of
volume for creativity and skill, this Gauge is dialled for maximum impact.77 Grey St,
South Brisbane, Qld
(07) 3638 0431
gaugebrisbane.com.au+ Brunch Sat-Sun
8am-11.30am; lunch
Sat-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm;
dinner Wed-Sat
5pm-10.30pm
+Bookings recommended
+Licensed
+ 2-3 courses $60-$78;
dégustation $110
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Outdoor dining
+ Chefs Cormac Bradfield
& Phil Marchant50 Gauge V AUSTRALIAN
ThisstrikingModernist-inspireddestination,justomodishJamesStreet,is
one of Australia’s smartest interpreters of Middle Eastern cooking, and the
recent arrival of Sydney chef Adam Wolfers (Ételek, Yellow) will serve only
to elevate this reputation. Wolfers’ début menu is a masterclass on stepping
into hallowed kitchen turf with confidence. Take the snacks, for example:
rock oysters veiled in spiced brown butter, or koftas reimagined as finely
minced, beautifully spiced kangaroo patties moulded around a bone, with
tangy fermented tahini and chilli oil for dipping. Kataifi is presented as
golden-crisp strings of potato, a nest-like topping for a creamy blend
of sunflower seeds and chickpeas. And Gerard’s signature lamb tartare?
The richly flavoured backstrap dice now conceals a piquant base of garlic-
spiked yoghurt – add dollops of both to a tortilla-like celeriac “flatbread”,
load up with ribbons of pickled fennel and smile. More heft? Try the beef
intercostals bolstered by basturma spices and potent toum. Friendly service
is rounded out by sommelier Dalia Katia Leo, who is as well-versed as her
list’s wide-ranging scope. Mandarin curd, black cardamom ice-cream and
sesame crumble delivers an aptly nuanced finish.14/15 James St,
Fortitude Valley, Qld
(07) 3852 3822
gerardsbistro.com.au+ Lunch Wed-Sun
noon-3pm;
dinner daily 6pm-10pm
+Bookings recommended
+Licensed, bar
+ E $15-$27 M $26-$50
D $15
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Outdoor dining
+Private room
+Wheelchair friendly
+Chef Adam Wolfers48 Gerard’s Bistro V MIDDLE EASTERN
82 GOURMET TRAVELLER