Swordfishbellybacon.Murraycod-fatcaramel.Albacoreeyechip.
Welcome to Saint Peter, where chef-owner Josh Niland gives as
much reverence to fish oal as prime flesh, and every day is another
opportunity for ingenuity. Go open, curious and ready to try Australian
seafood species that are seldom celebrated, often wild-caught, and
undoubtedly prepared in ways you’ve never seen before. The experience,
from what’s on the plate to what’s in the glass, can be as classic or
adventurous as you wish. Margaret River chardonnay or a wild-fermented
beer? Six varieties of oyster, served simply, or rounds of snapper throat
on toast with a zingy salsa verde? Cos Harbour kingfish stomach is
sliced into tender ribbons, sauced with fish heart and oal XO and sat
atop doughy crumpets. Niland pushes fish to the edge, dry-ageing bass
groper for 25 days, say. Served grilled with a tangy VB mustard, its robust
flavour is divisive – but on another day, in a wintry pie, it’s just right.
The ever-changing menu means waitsta don’t always have the detail
this level of innovation calls for, but stop in at Fish Butchery, just a few
doors up, and the dedication and knowledge is peerless.362 Oxford St,
Paddington, NSW
(02) 8937 2530
saintpeter.com.au+ Lunch Fri noon-2.30pm,
Sat-Sun noon-3pm;
dinner Tue-Sun
5.30pm-10pm
+Bookings essential
+Licensed
+ E $20-$32 M $39-$48
D $18
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Chef Josh Niland42 Saint Peter V SEAFOOD
Wasabi’sfocusonlocalproduce(muchofitsourcedfromtherestaurant’s
own farm) may be contemporary, but dining at this riverside icon almost
feels old-school – the setting is quiet and intimate, the floor sta
exacting. There’s no unnecessary fanfare, but expect an adventure
of discovery; you don’t so much order from the Wasabi menu as give
yourself over to it. A tartare of fresh-caught local fish with an extra kick,
courtesy of mirin, miso, shishito and edamame salt, awakens the palate,
while charcoal-grilled arrowhead squid stued with baby Mooloolaba king
prawns is finished with a grassy shiso and mitsuba dressing. Slow-cooked
Rhodavale pork shoulder served with genmaicha, meanwhile, is served in
its own rich broth to create a kind of rarefied Japanese comfort food. As
for the drinks oering, order some sake from a wide-ranging international
menu or a bottle from the impressive collection of vintage Champagne.
Either way, be prepared to savour dessert – a watermelon and shiso granita
finished with vibrant green nasturtium ice-cream proves to be, like
everything else at Wasabi, both restrained and inspired.2 Quamby Pl, Noosa,Qld
(07) 5449 2443
wasabigroup.com.au+ Lunch Fri & Sun 1pm-4pm;
dinner Wed-Sun
5pm-10pm
+Bookings recommended
+Licensed, bar
+Dégustations $95-$150
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Private room
+Wheelchair friendly
+Chef Zeb Gilbert43 Wasabi V JAPANESE
Theinteriormaybeallconcreteandsharpcorners,buttheessence
of Franklin couldn’t be further from its industrial setting. With specialist
local producers on board, eyes peeled for wild ingredients and – among
other tools – a woodfired Scotch oven, Analiese Gregory assembles
flavours of exquisite delicacy. A single skewer of char-grilled oyster
mushrooms dressed with a frothy wakame sabayon lingers memorably,
as does a chicken liver parfait sweetened with preserved quince and
served on yeast crisps. The juicy pop of pickled currants and the crunch
of smoked macadamias roll perfectly against sea-salty, smoky octopus,
and a whole flathead built for sharing is served with a wickedly rich
sea urchin butter. Sommelier Forbes Appleby’s wine list, meanwhile,
is as impressive as ever: clear, concise and reliably on the pulse.
Gregory’s crisp potato with brown butter mousse and salted caramel
remains a signature dish with good reason, and neatly encompasses
her creative approach driven by flavour and finesse.30 Argyle St, Hobart, Tas
(03) 6234 3375
franklinhobart.com.au+ Dinner Tue-Sat
6pm–10pm
+Bookings recommended
+Licensed, bar
+ E $12-$22 M $22-$40
D $16; dégustation $85
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Private room
+Wheelchair friendly
+Chef Analiese Gregory44 Franklin V AUSTRALIAN
84 GOURMET TRAVELLER