Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

(Brent) #1
SomeadviceonOakridge’sdesserts:orderthem.JoBarrett,halfofone
ofAustraliandining’sbestdouble-actswithMattStone,doessublime
sweetstu,likethepistachiothreewaysservedwithapricotkernel
crumble.Butit’snotjustaboutahappyending.Barrettisalsoresponsible
forthiswineryrestaurant’ssuperbsourdoughbreadandotherbaked
highlights,suchasthecarawaycroissantaccompanyingsmokedtrout,
caviarandculturedcream,andthegoldenflakypastrybaseofa
mushroomtartwithwashed-rindcheesesauce.Theroomhasglorious
viewsofvineyardsanddistanthazymountains,andthere’sasimilarly
impressive,estate-heavywinelisttomatch.Stonehasbeenonthe
low-wasteandlow-foodmilestrailsincethestartofhiscareer;almost
everythingonthemenuissourcedclosetohome,beginningatthe
vegiepatchesandstretchingtothrillinglyfreshburratamadewith
localJerseymilk,superbchorizoorbellywithshatter-crispskinfrom
neighbourhoodpigs,orasnackofemupastramiwithpickledgreen
almondsthat’sallYarraValley.Uncompromising?Sure.Butit’salso
uncompromisinglydelicious,whichisthebestkindofsustainability.

864 MaroondahHwy,
Coldstream,Vic
(03) 97389900
oakridgewines.com.au

+ LunchThu-Mon
11.30am-5pm
+Bookingsessential
+Licensed
+ E$22M$38-$45D$18;
dégustations$70-$90
+CardsAEMCVEFT
+Outdoordining
+Privateroom
+Wheelchairfriendly
+ ChefsJoBarrett
&MattStone

41 Oakridge V AUSTRALIAN


Best bars


Adelaide
MAYBE MAE
15 Peel St, Adelaide
The platonic ideal of the swanky
subterranean speakeasy.
What to order: The Bill Murray – a
winning blend of Japanese whisky,
apricot brandy, citrus and mint.

PALOMA BAR AND PANTRY
20 Peel St, Adelaide
This worthy newcomer spruiks
Med-inspired drinks, conservas and
smallgoods in elegant, sleek surrounds.
What to order: The namesake Paloma.

PINK MOON SALOON
21 Leigh St, Adelaide
Chalet meets laneway at this endlessly
charming institution with craft brews,
on-trend wines and creative cocktails.
What to order: Gin and juice, spiked with
cardamom and celery.

THE TASTING ROOM AT
EAST END CELLARS
23-25 Vardon Ave, Adelaide
The whole bottle shop is your list.
Browse carefully, pick a bottle, pay a
mere $15 corkage and enjoy. Easy.
What to order: A flight from the featured
winery of the week.

Brisbane
ARC WINE BAR
5 Boundary St, Brisbane
Innovative snacks from the shared Arc
Dining kitchen, a cracking by-the-glass
collection and prime city views.
What to order: Pork hock and head terrine.

1889 ENOTECA
10-12 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba
This Roman-accented wine bar boasts
one of the country’s top natural wine
lists and timeless pasta dishes.
What to order: A classic cacio e pepe.

THE GRESHAM
308 Queen St, Brisbane
Moody old-school drinking digs
situated plumb in the centre of
Brisbane City.
What to order: Death and Taxes, an
ode to Irish whiskey with pineapple
and ginger.

Canberra
BACARO
7 Lonsdale St (enter via laneway), Braddon
Another one of Canberra’s backstreet
secrets abounds with Italian wine and
ripping woodfired pizze.
What to order: Quattro formaggi pizza.

BAR ROCHFORD
Level 1, 65 London Cct, Canberra
Our 2018 Bar of the Year winner
continues to be a standard-bearer
in the natural wine and snack stakes.
What to order: Plum and lardo toast.

Hobart
LUCINDA
123 Collins St, Hobart
A spirited little wine bar brought to
you by the Dier Makr gang. Minimal
intervention is the mantra, with smart
and seasonal share plates to match.
What to order: Pâté en croûte.

INSTITUT POLAIRE
1/7 Murray St, Hobart
Cold-climate wines and cocktails made
with Süd Polaire’s Antarctic dry spirits
in a tundra-chic setting.
What to order: Monster prawns with
tamari butter and peony capers.

Melbourne
BAR AMERICANO
20 Presgrave Pl, Melbourne
Peak Melbourne: consummate classic
cocktails in a tiny, hidden, standing
room-only laneway bar. No photos.
What to order: An Americano, obviously.

BAR MARGAUX
Basement, 111 Lonsdale St, Melbourne
French by way of New York-channelling
late-night bar from the folks behind The
Everleigh. Stylishly raucous.
What to order: A Martini and a burger.

DINNER BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL
Crown Towers, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank
Miraculous, mind-bending cocktails
with city views at Heston’s Melbourne
outpost bar.
What to order: An astonishing Bloody Mary.

GERALD’S BAR
386 Rathdowne St, Carlton North
An idiosyncratic masterclass in what a
neighbourhood bar should be, including
good food and vinyl-driven soundtrack.
What to order: Wine and cut-to-order salumi.

ROMEO LANE
1a Crossley St, Melbourne
Precision cocktails, classic bar snacks,
prescient bartenders in a gorgeous,
intimate space.
What to order: The bartenders will tell you.

Perth
PETITION WINE BAR & MERCHANT
State Buildings, cnr St Georges Tce
& Barrack St, Perth
Local? Imported? Drink-in? Takeaway?
The State Buildings’ in-house enoteca
is the wino’s happy place.
What to order: Leave it to former GT
Sommelier of the Year, Emma Farrelly.

ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL
Crown Perth, Great Eastern Hwy, Burswood
Drink, snack, dinner and parts there-of:
the bar at this elevated steakhouse
is more than just a holding station.
What to order: Hand-cut fettuccine
with wagyu Bolognese.

YOUNG GEORGE
48 George St, East Fremantle
This loud, free-wheeling East Fremantle
bar and kitchen is all about big-hitting

drinks and flavours.
What to order: House charcuterie.

Sydney
CANTINA OK!
Council Pl, Sydney
A standing-room only pocket of
good times launched by the team
from Tio’s, dedicated to agave-based
spirits in all their glory.
What to order: The Margarita OK!

CONTINENTAL
210 Australia St, Newtown
This deli, bar and bistro trifecta hits the
jackpot on all three fronts. Bonus points
for the range of killer canned cocktails.
What to order: The Mar-tinny.

DEAR SAINTE ÉLOISE
5/29 Orwell St, Potts Point
Cosy seating, two-bite wins like roe
boats (potato nests with salmon roe) and
natural wine to boot. Dear Sainte Eloise
is the love letter that Sydney needs.
What to order: A $13 glass of mystery wine.

THE DOLPHIN HOTEL
412 Crown St, Surry Hills
Choose your own adventure: ponies
of beer in the pub, idiosyncratic vino in
the Wine Room, or futursitic cocktails
at Scout upstairs.
What to order: It all depends on where
you sit.

DOUBLE DEUCE LOUNGE
6 Bridge St, Sydney
The Ramblin’ Rascals Tavern trio
double down with a “porno-chic”
basement bar sequel that revels
in ’70s sleaze.
What to order: The Discretionary.

MAYBE SAMMY
115 Harrington St, The Rocks
The roaring ’50s roar on at this
Vegas-inspired boozer from the
Maybe Frank squad.
What to order: The New Frontier.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 85

PHOTOGRAPHY FORBES APPLEBY ¢FRANKLIN¤ & JASON LOUCAS ¢SAINT PETER & OAKRIDGE¤.


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