PeterDoylemayhaveretiredfromthekitchen,butEstcarrieson.
Theworldcouldbeburningoutsideandthestawouldn’tmissabeat,
pouringflutesofblancdeblancsfromtheChampagnetrolleyand
checkingthecreasesinthelinentotheverylast.Theroomitselfalmost
demandsit.Pressed-metalceilingssoar,softlightspillsthroughthefront
windows,plushbanquettesarestrewnwithcushions.Ontheplate,chef
JacobDaveypresentsdishesconcernedforemostwithclassicflavours
andpolishedexecution.Ameatytumbleofspannercrabtoppedwith
troutroeandachionadeofcavoloneroandunderscoredbylemon
jam,say,orroastedabaloneonacollagen-richbraiseofpig’strottercut
throughwithcapersandservedwithacrisptoastshippingabalone-liver
butterandherbs.Sous-videbabysnapperwithabutterysauceissweet
andfresh,whileasideofdeep-friedpotatoflavouredwithwagyufat
takeshashbrownstotheirupperlimits.Andthewinelististhebestfun
you’llhavewithanencyclopedia.Thisisaplacethattranscendstrends- whetherthatlandsashushedorstifled,classicorstale,orpolished
orstiin 2019 isintheeyeofthebeholder.
Level1,Establishment,
252 GeorgeSt,Sydney,
NSW,(02) 91147312
merivale.com/venues/est+LunchMon-Fri
noon-2.30pm;dinner
Mon-Sat6pm-10pm
+Bookingsrecommended
+Licensed
+LunchE$28-$42
M$42-$74D$22;dinner
2-4courses$105-$160;
dégustations$165-$195
+CardsAEMCVEFT
+Privateroom,
wheelchairfriendly
+ChefJacobDavey34 Est V AUSTRALIAN
Cheap eats
Adelaide
PARWANA
124b Henley Beach Road, Torrensville,
(08) 8443 9001
A decade on, and the Ayubi family
continue to set the nationwide standard
for authentic Afghan cooking.
What to order: Narenji palaw made with
aged rice, candied orange and nuts.+82 POCHA
Shop 3/25 Grenfell St, Adelaide,
(08) 8212 8274
Jeyuk-bibimbap, kimchi pancakes,
fried chicken and other Korean
culinary hits are all the rage at this
Grenfell Plaza hotspot.
What to order: The killer kimchi-jeon.LANTERN BY NU
10 Selby St, Adelaide, (08) 7078 3559
The Street Bites menu at Nu Suandok-
mai’s home-style Thai eatery is a bargain
collection of snacks that are satisfying on
their own or a perfect prelude to a meal.
What to order: Betel leaves filled with pork
belly, prawns or coconut.TACO QUETZALCOATL
Shop 28/18 Amanda St, Salisbury,
Earnest Mexican fare is the focus here,
and the corn tortillas, lovingly pressed
in-house, are a real highlight.
What to order: The red mole is a force
to be reckoned with.Brisbane
ALLIUM
148 Merthyr Rd, Brisbane, (07) 3254 0595
A smart, owner-operated destination
that knows its onions.
What to order: The shared banquet roves
over several courses and is value for $64.LA LUNE WINE CO
44 Fish Ln, South Brisbane, (07) 3255 0010
Laneway cave à manger-style wine baroering personality-filled plates, with
plenty of Euro goodness by-the-glass
What to order: At $60, the 5-course tasting
menu is a snip.LUPO
2460 Gold Coast Hwy, Broadbeach,
0424 675 774
Nothing on the menu’s over $30 at this
fun, cocktail-fuelled horseshoe bar with a
tiny kitchen and a brick wood-fired oven.
What to order: The charry wood-fired chook
with mascarpone and lemon.TARO’S RAMEN
L2, 480 Queen St, Brisbane, (07) 3839 4840
There are bigger bowls around town,
but Taro Akimoto’s devotion to creating
exceptional ramen is well-known.
His noodles are the ones to beat.
What to order: The lip-smacking tonkotsu.Canberra
THE ITALIAN PLACE
38 Mort St, Braddon, (02) 6179 8812
Industry stalwart Tony Lo Terzo oers
a masterclass in service and generous
plates of fresh house-made pasta.
What to order: Orecchiette with broccoli.TU DO
2/7 Sargood St, O’Connor, (02) 6248 6030
In an era of fake meat and fake news,
this reliable unfussy Vietnamese
restaurant is the real deal.
What to order: Vietnamese spring rolls.Hobart
SAWAK
131 Collins St, Hobart, (03) 6234 3622
Char kway teow, nasi lemak and other
Malaysian mainstays rule the roost at
this unpretentious local haunt.
What to order: Creamy, comforting laksa.TOM McHUGO’S HOBART HOTEL
87 Macquarie St, Hobart, (03) 6231 4916
A modest corner watering hole that flies
the flag for Australian gastropubs, withprices almost too good to be true.
What to order: Fried black-pepper chicken.Melbourne
ABLA’S
109 Elgin St, Carlton, (03) 9347 0006
One of the original and best Lebanese
restaurants in Melbourne is great value.
What to order: Ladies’ fingers.CIBI
33-39 Keele St, Collingwood, 0481 398 686
Japanese breakfast in this spacious
light-filled café and homewares store
makes the world better.
What to order: Japanese breakfast plate.DELHI STREETS
22 Katherine Pl, Melbourne, (03) 9629 2620
Vibrant, fresh Indian street food served
to a backdrop of Indian pop music.
What to order: Bhel puri – sweet and sour
pued rice salad.KALIMERA SOUVLAKI ART
22 Katherine Pl, Melbourne, (03) 9939 3912
Athens in Oakleigh – trad souvlaki made
with fluy pita stued with female pork,
oregano, tzatziki and chips.
What to order: The pork gyros platter.SUPER LING
138 Queensberry Ct, Carlton, (03) 9347 5878
Lunchtime at Super Ling is all about the
house-made, bargain-priced noodles.
What to order: Noodles with toppings from
oal to eggplant.Perth
CHICHO GELATO
180 William St, Northbridge
Freakshakes? Doughnuts? Say no and
eat dessert at this new-wave gelateria
spruiking good ingredients and creativity.
What to order: The chef collab.CHU BAKERY
498 William St, Highgate, (08) 9328 4740
Hit Seren and Ryan Chu’s bakery forInstagram-ready pastries, then head
to nearby Hyde Park for a picnic.
What to order: A matcha pu.THE RE STORE
72 Lake St, Northbridge, (08) 9328 1877
From groceries to a nourishing
feed on the run, this Italian deli is
at Perth’s service.
What to order: The continental roll.Sydney
EMMA’S SNACK BAR
59 Liberty St, Enmore, (02) 9550 3458
Mezes that’ll make you double dip in a
communal and convivial cult-favourite
sliver of a Lebanese restaurant.
What to order: The ridiculously juicy
Moorish chicken.HO JIAK
92 Hay St, Haymarket, (02) 8040 0252
Ambitious, yet grounded in tradition,
Ho Jiak exemplifies finessed home-style
Malaysian cooking at its finest.
What to order: Silky steamed century,
duck and chicken eggs.MARY’S CIRCULAR QUAY
7 Macquarie Pl, Sydney
Newtown’s beloved burger joint finds
a second home just steps away from
Sydney Harbour.
What to order: The vegan Mary’s Burger
might just be better than the OG.RARA
66b Regent St, Redfern
This mod ramen-ya established itself
as one of the city’s best in a matter
of months. The queues are proof.
What to order: Tonkotsu all the way.TAMALERIA AND MEXICAN DELI
463 Marrickville Rd, Dulwich Hill,
(02) 8590 1661
In a city starved for proper Mexican,
Rosa Cienfuego delivers the goods.
What to order: The Mexico City-style
CHEAP EATS ¢ CHEAP EATS ¢ CHEAP EATS ¢ CHEAP EATS ¢ CHEAP EATS ¢ CHEAP EATS ¢ CHEAP EATS ¢ CHEAP EATSchicken tamale with salsa verde.88 GOURMET TRAVELLER