Australian Gourmet Traveller – September 2019

TheelementsareatplayatFiredoor.Dishesoftenrequirehandsand

handtowels,firewooddecoratestheroom,andLennoxHastieisat

thecoalfaceinanopenkitchenfuelledbyfire,embersglowing.Thisis

arestaurantthatallowsingredientstospeakforthemselves,withafocus

onpristineproduce,preparedwithfierceattentiontoheatandtiming,

andseasonedsparely–whetherit’samarron,presentedlivetothetable

beforebeingsplitandgrilled,subtlysmokyandsweetandaccentedwith

greenfingerlimeandsaltyiceplant,orapileofstrawberryclamsfrom

Edentoppedwithblackenedgarlicscapesand’nduja.Slicedmarbledrump

cap,servedwithpinemushroomsandaherbsauce,isanexceptionally

handledpieceofbeef,butwhenthewhirofthebandsawandthecoupleat

thenexttablearescreaming“orderthe185-dayagedrib-eye”it’sprobably

worthlistening–justsaveyourpennies.Servicecouldusethesamelevel

ofattentionHastiegiveshiscraft,andaseatawayfromthegrillcanfeel

asteptoofarfromtheaction,butthewinelistisastute,andasmoked

buttermilkpannacottafordessertrightlyjiggly.Burn,baby,burn.

23-33MarySt,

SurryHills,NSW

(02) 82040800

firedoor.com.au

+ LunchThu-Fri

noon-2.30pm;dinner

Tue-Sat5.30pm-10.30pm

+Bookingsrecommended

+Licensed,bar

+ E$23-$30M$47-$70

D$16-$20

+CardsAEDCMCVEFT

+Wheelchairfriendly

+ChefLennoxHastie

26 Firedoor V AUSTRALIAN

ChicAnnaSpiro-designedinteriors.Widescreenwaterfrontviews.

Confident,originaldishes.Fromeveryangle,Archasarrivedinpeak

form.Locatedatthequieterendofabustlingwharfprecinct,thisglam

eyecatcherisatwo-foldtreat,boastingasiblingwinebarthat’sjustas

appealingastheconservatory-stylediningspace.Well-organisedfloor

sta™areengaging,andthere’smuchtodiscuss.There’sthetextural

drinkso™erfromsommelierIanTrinkle’ssmartlist,andAlannaSapwell’s

menuo™ersitsownswagoftalkingpoints.House-curedgooseprosciutto,

forinstance,savouryslicesofwhichmightcomedrapedacrosspleatsof

persimmononfreshcurdencircledbyfigleafoil.Orafilletofrosyjobfish

withcrisp,glass-likeskinandmilkyfleshaccompaniedbybutteredcorn

dottedwithstar-shapedslicesofwingedbean.Porkterrine,madewith

hockandheadmeatandservedatroomtemperaturetomagnifyits

flavour,isembellishedwithdriedheartshavings,peachchutneyand

acurveofsalty,vinegarypotatochips.Surprisesflowintodessert,too,

wheretheMelbacake,aglorioussliceofpeachicing,raspberryjellyand

palespongecoveredinfingerlimesprinkles,knocksitoutofthepark.

5 BoundarySt,Howard

SmithWharves,Brisbane,

Qld,(07) 35053980

arcdining.com.au

+ LunchWed-Sun

noon-3pm;dinner

daily6pm-10pm

+ Bookingsrecommended

+ Licensed,bar

+ E$16-$32M$32-$50

D$14-$18;dégustations

$68-$90

+ CardsAEMCVEFT

+ Outdoordining

+ Wheelchairfriendly

+ ChefAlannaSapwell

27 ArcDining W V AUSTRALIAN

Sean’sfeelslikehome,orahomeawayfromhome,onewhereBondi

Beachissocloseyoualmostfeelthesandunderyourtoes.It’saided,

nodoubt,byhospitalitywithasenseofeasethatonlycomeswith

experience,aswellasthecharmingmismatchedfurniture,localartwork,

fresh-cutflowers,scallop-shelldecorationsandamenurecitedfromthe

chalkboard.Bric-a-bracbeachhousechic,let’scallit.Ontheplate,Sean

Morandoesnothingmorethangoodfooddoneright:aplateofmostly

rawbabyvegetablesfromhisBilpinfarmsimplydressedwithvinaigrette

trumpetsproduceatitspeak,asdoesasweetsweetcornchowder

toppedwithaclutchofpipisandloadedwithchorizo.Elsewhere,properly

roastedchickenandcrumbedMurraycod,“Mum’sstyle”withmash,

elevatehomecomforts.TheprospectofBYObolstersthemodest

butrighteousAustralianwinelistandmany,celebratingornot,bring

somethingspecialtogowiththeirbestlinen.Thesimplepleasure

offruitinseasonwithpeach-leafice-creamandapastrytwistspeaks

tothegreaterthemethattheluxuryofwholesomefoodpreparedwith

careandattentionwinsoutoverfussandfrills.Anyday.

270 CampbellPde,

NorthBondi,NSW

(02) 93654924

seanspanaroma.co

+ LunchSat-Sun

noon-3.30pm;

dinnerWed-Sat

6pm-9.30pm

+Bookingsrecommended

+Licensed&BYO

+ E$28-$33M$35-$45

D$19

+CardsAEMCVEFT

+Outdoordining

+ChefSeanMoran

28 Sean’s AUSTRALIAN

GOURMET TRAVELLER 91

PHOTOGRAPHY LISA COHEN
LAKE HOUSE, BEN DEARNLEY
SEAN’S, KARA HYNES
ARC DINING & NIKKI TO
LUMI & FIREDOOR.

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