A plate of blushing tunatartare,dottedwithbeetroot-pickledradish,
fennel pollen and trout roe is set down by a waiter in a white jacket.
There’s loud applause. But it’s not for the beauty of the dish, nor the
theatre of mixing it tableside. It’s for a proposal, the second of the
day. There’s much to love about Icebergs – where else can you
feel the ocean breeze on your face as you fork hand-rolled spinach
spaghetti with nubs of slow-roasted lamb, eggplant and juniper spice?
Or pesce del giorno: perhaps blue-eye trevalla with skin of glass-like
crispness, and scales of anchovy-buttered kipflers, oxalis, cime di rapa,
radish and briny Alto olives. There’s a brightness to the modern
Italo-style menu, matched by an equally spirited floor team, wine list
and soundtrack. Tiramisù for two, meanwhile, is well worthy of its
Icebergs legend status, a treasure chest of jelly cubes, coee sorbet
and more. What on earth is in it? “Everything,” says the sommelier.
Don’t wait for an occasion. Just say I do.1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach,
NSW, (02) 9365 9000
idrb.com+ Brunch Sun 10am-noon;
lunch daily noon-3pm;
dinner Mon-Thu 6.30pm-
9.30pm, Fri-Sat 6.30pm-
10pm, Sun 6.30pm-8.30pm
+Bookings recommended
+Licensed, bar
+ E $22-$32 M $48-$52
D $18-$22;
tasting menu $145
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Private room
+Wheelchair friendly
+Chef Monty Koludrovic23 Icebergs Dining Room & Bar V ITALIAN
What’sinaname?Automata,asmachines,functionseamlesslywithout
any hint to their inner workings. Here, in an industrial setting warmed
by buzz and hum, layers of depth and nuance lie behind a veneer of
simplicity. Take the beef rump cap – pink, with a dark crust – for which
the accompanying grains, called Job’s tears, have been inoculated with
koji for added savouriness. Or the circle of raw yellowfin tuna, covered
with burnt watermelon dressed with tamari, which hides a centre of
cream turned sour with kefir. The 5-course prix fixe may have crept
to over $100, but based on the level of skill and the speed of thought,
this is still one of the best-value tasting menus around. Marvel at the
delicacy of beetroot slices pinched around spheres of sheep’s curd
and served in a broth of crab apple and fennel, or the depth of flavour
in the ink sauce underscoring arrows of cuttlefish. Add a killer drinks
list with a fondness for the rare and unusual, and sta who are both
switched-on and relaxed, and this is a place that’s ticking over nicely.
Well-oiled, and running smoothly.5 Kensington St,
Chippendale, NSW
(02) 8277 8555
automata.com.au+ Lunch Fri-Sat noon-3pm;
dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-10pm
+ Bookings recommended
+ Licensed
+ 5-course tasting menu
$105; 7-course tasting
menu $130
+ Cards AE DC MC V EFT
+ Wheelchair friendly
+ Chef Clayton Wells24 Automata V AUSTRALIAN
TrustBrentSavagetoserveSydney’sfanciestfishandchips.Thefriesare
properly seasoned, the tartare sauce textbook and the handsome whole
flathead – boned, barring the head and tail – is crumbed with panko,
pued rice and amaranth. And trust Nick Hildebrandt to propose a spot-on
pairing from his perfectly pitched wine list – a textural, oxidative macabeu
blend – and pour it from a fetching Brian Hirst decanter. When these guys
commit to a theme, they really commit. At Cirrus, the duo’s shrine to
seafood, every detail is given its due, and the execution across the board
is of the highest order. Inventive, artfully plated starters make a strong first
impression (how is that seductively smoky eel custard so insanely silken?),
while generous, equally faultless main courses like roasted swordfish steak
crowned with sweet slivers of fennel, bottarga and toasty buckwheat play
it straighter. Though just metres apart, the airy, free-flowing space feels
miles away from the fast-casual frenzy that is Barangaroo, thanks in no
small part to informed and intuitive service from an experienced team.
Cast those worries aside, splash some cash and drop anchor.23 Barangaroo Ave,
Barangaroo, NSW
(02) 9220 0111
cirrusdining.com.au+ Lunch daily noon-3pm;
dinner daily 6pm-10pm
+Bookings recommended
+Licensed, bar
+ E $14-$42 M $40-$68
D $18; dégustation $110
+Cards AE MC V EFT
+Outdoor dining
+Wheelchair friendly
+ Chefs Brent Savage
& Anthony Schifilliti25 Cirrus V SEAFOOD
92 GOURMET TRAVELLER