46 NAPLES ILLUSTRATED
Land Cruiser so we won’t miss the two cheetahs
he spotted on the way in. Less than a quarter-
mile in, we see the pair sunning themselves,
belly up, on a clay mound. We take our time
photographing from all angles. Judging by their
girth, they won’t be moving anytime soon.
Clive asks Annie what she wants most to see.
She has that answer handy: “Bush babies! And
leopards.”
“We’ll do our best,” he replies. “The ground’s
still wet from the rains.”
I’ve been on enough safaris to know that’s code
for potential disappointment. Off-roading, the
biggest advantage of game viewing in a private
reserve, is prohibited when the soil is muddy.
This is nonnegotiable for conservation-minded
outfitter andBeyond, which is as concerned with
its impact on wild places as with providing an ex-
traordinary guest experience. I’m secretly thrilledabout this. The subtext of such a policy—if habi-
tat is damaged, the balance of the ecosystem is
threatened—is a far more valuable lesson for my
daughter than ticking the Big Five off a list.
Regardless of conditions, Phinda’s varied
terrain, which includes most of southern Af-
rica’s remaining sand forest, makes for prolific
wildlife sightings. Even on the short drive to the
lodge, we glimpse impala, giraffe, waterbuck,
and a rare black rhino at a watering hole. Spirits
are high, and the mood is only amplified when
we reach our home for the next few days, and-
Beyond Phinda Homestead. This private villa,
which was expanded and reopened last year,
is a magnificent expression of modern architec-
ture in the midst of the KwaZulu-Natal wilder-
ness. Four bedrooms, all with outdoor showers
and private decks, are oriented around massive
common areas with plenty of places to gather,
including an infinity-edge pool, a sunken firepit,
an outdoor bar, and even a koi pond. Everything
has been designed to celebrate indigenous
culture: Art is by South African creatives, reedESCAPE
Scenes from andBeyond Phinda Homestead (from above): Game
viewing from a bedroom deck; braai in the boma; interiors,
including bedrooms and outdoor living areas, incorporate
Zulu art and materials indigenous to South Africa. Far right:
The view from the Lebombo Mountains.