48 NAPLES ILLUSTRATED
breakfast. We console ourselves with waf-
fles, seed-rich granolas, smoothie bowls,
and Turkish eggs with garlicky yogurt—and
just like that, the sun comes out. While Clive
and Bernie dry off the Cruiser for another
foray, we hear elephants and see them, a
moment later, coming to drink at our swim-
ming pool. Any lingering disappointment
over a wet morning vanishes as we behold
the parade of pachyderms less than 20 feet
away. Annie’s face is beaming.
For sundowners, a safari tradition since
colonial times, we head to the Lebombo
Mountains. On the way, we track a chee-
tah and its cubs with a kill. When they walk
away, Clive helps Annie make a plaster-of-
Paris impression of the cub’s paw prints,
which she proclaims “the best souvenir
ever.” We continue through forested terrain
to higher elevations and stop at a peak that
yields sweeping views across the valley to
the coast. Clive and Bernie set up a table
and pour age-appropriate libations as we
appreciate the halo of golden light that sig-
nals the end of day.
When night falls, we look for bush
babies and leopards in the trees. Even Ber-
nie’s eagle eyes and red spotlight are not
helping. Chances are both are deeper in-
side the bush, but we can’t risk tearing up
the ground. There are other rewards—lions
on the prowl, the silhouette of a duiker be-
fore it darts into the thicket, and a magical
show of stars—but the longing remains.
On our last night at the Homestead, we
have dinner alfresco in the boma, a circular
reed structure that houses the braai (barbe-
cue). Somewhere between main
course and dessert, we hear the
human-like cry of a bush baby.
Clive leads us on a walk to find
the nocturnal creature, but the
cry becomes fainter as it moves
through the treetops.
“Sorry, Annie,” he says. “We
tried.”
Her answer makes me proud:
“That’s okay. I know it’s there.”
Sometimes that’s enough.
(andbeyond.com)ESCAPE
Safari PREGAME
There’s more than wildlife in South Africa. Cape Town,
one of the country’s three capitals, is rich in heritage,
natural beauty, and plenty for kids to do. AndBeyond’s
fantastic guides can help you negotiate the city ef-
ficiently and safely. Here are five must-dos:
1. Tour Cape Point, the peninsula that culminates in
the Cape of Good Hope. Don’t skip the drive through
Chapman’s Peak and stop at Boulders Beach (near
Simon’s Town) to commune with hundreds of African
penguins. (capepoint.co.za)
2. Stay at Cape Grace at the foot of Table Mountain,
on the V&A waterfront. The views are as extraordi-
nary as the hospitality. Family-friendly activities include
a lovely high tea, seal watching from the rear terrace,
and cookie decorating. (capegrace.com)
3. Visit Robben Island. Off the coast of Cape Town, this
living museum was once a political prison, famous for
incarcerating Nelson Mandela. Ex-prisoners now lead the
tours, offering a harrowing perspective on the nation’s
hard-won civil liberties. This is a wonderful educational
experience for mature children. (robben-island.org.za)
4. Take the aerial cableway to the top of Table Moun-
tain. Fair warning: The cable car doesn’t operate in windy
conditions, which occur often. If you don’t get lucky, there
are 350 hiking trails to the top. The views are more than
worth the effort. (tablemountainnationalpark.org)
5. Spend a day in Kirstenbosch National Botanical
Garden (sanbi.org/gardens/kirstenbosch). This South
African treasure is home to more than 200 species of
fauna and avifauna and 1,000 indigenous plants. Stop in
to Moyo (moyo.co.za) for local dishes like venison potjie,
a stew made in cast-iron pots. The fried mopane worms
are sure to elicit an “Ewww” out of the kids. «Cape Grace is nestled at the foot
of Table Mountain.Sunken firepit at andBeyond
Phinda Homestead