HOW TO EXPERIENCE
Friluftsliv
In her search to understand Norway’s
concept of outdoor living, Lisa Abend made three
stops in the country. Each offers a unique
landscape and many ways to connect with nature.NORDSKOT
At Manshausen, a pri-
vate-island resort off the
shores of the far northern
town of Nordskot, cabins
with window walls provide
uninterrupted views of
the 55-acre islet and sur-
rounding Grøtøya Strait.
The white sand beaches
look out at the mountains,
and the resort organizes
fishing, rock-climbing,
and diving adventures.
Back on the mainland,
Nordskot Brygge Sea
Sport Centre rents boats,
kayaks, and paddle-
boards. Dozens of trails in
various levels of difficulty
provide show-stopping
views of the Vestfjorden
and Lofotveggen peaks.
ÅLESUND
Situated at the mouth of
Storfjord, which leads to
the iconic Geirangerfjord
on Norway’s northwest
coast, Ålesund offers
stunning vistas, abun-
dant outdoor activities,
and locally sourced food.
Geiranger Fjordservice
offers sightseeing cruises
in what UNESCO dubbed
one of the world’s most
scenic fjords. Two water-
front restaurants, Sjøbua
and Apotekergata No.
5 , serve fresh seafood,
including hake paired
with asparagus from the
nearby island village of
Hvasser. The Kube art
museum hosts temporary
exhibitions featuring
artists and works with
connections to Norway,
such as The Edge of theSea, an exhibit showcas-
ing sea-inspired artwork,
through December 29.
The town of Geiranger,
a three-hour boat ride
from Ålesund, sits at the
head of the fjord. Two and
a half miles uphill lies
Westerås, a farm and res-
taurant that rents cabins
and provides an aerial
view of Geirangerfjord.
Nearby trailheads take
you deep into the Norwe-
gian forest. A 45-minute
hike leads to the nearly
100-foot Storseterfossen
waterfall.
A series of bridges
and undersea tunnels
connects the mainland to
several islands, includingGodøy, where the Alnes
Lighthouse includes
a café, a community
center, and an exhibi-
tion space that displays
the work of local artists
Ørnulf Opdahl and Sidsel
Colbiørnsen.OSLO
Even Norway’s biggest
city offers an abundance
of friluftsliv. The Future
Library Forest in the
Nordmarka forest is
located about 30 minutes
from the city center. In
2014, Scottish artist Katie
Paterson planted 1,000
Norway spruce trees,
which will eventually
provide the paper for an
anthology that will be
published in the year 2114.
Vippa, a food hall started
by Norway’s first female
Michelin-starred chef,
Heidi Bjerkan, sits on theedge of Oslo fjord, with
plenty of outdoor seat-
ing. Just inland, three-
Michelin-star Maaemo
serves dishes inspired by
Norwegian nature and
centered around local
produce. Two outfits
located near Oslo’s city
center, KOK and Sørenga,
feature floating saunas
that make it easy to hop in
the chilly Nordic waters.
Walk-ins are welcome;
one- or two-hour time
slots can also be booked
in advance online.118 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019