120 AFAR SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019just back from
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TOP^ LEFT:^ SHEILAGHADAM,^ JOHNDAVIS,^ C
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VAN^ BEECK/HUNGRYFTWORLD,^ A
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COOK,^ ADAMBUREŠ/
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ELGIRL,^ ALEXANDERDUFFNER/
ALAMY,^ U&I/ISTOCK,^ WESTEND61GMBH/A
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MYA week before, my sister and I had arrived
to get scuba certified on the island of Koh Tao,
about 250 miles south of Bangkok. From the
get-go, our instructor warned us that whale
shark sightings had been low this season, but
our hopes remained high. Each day in scuba
school was filled with adventure: adjusting to
my Darth Vader-esque underwater breathing,
hearing the click, click of teachers tapping
their tanks to get students’ attention, floating
mere feet away from barracuda. Now, speed-
ing toward Green Rock, I had never felt moreAs our boat floated in the Gulf of Thailand,
a scratchy voice over the radio alerted our
captain that divers had seen an endangered
whale shark nearby. On deck, the energy was
palpable. Even the instructors, tanned and
perpetually sandy, were giddy. My hair whipped
around my face as the boat sped toward the
Green Rock dive site where the shark had been.
Hands shaking, I fastened my vest to the air
tank and defogged my mask. We were on the
last dive of our last day—no way was I going
to let foggy goggles ruin this.prepared to earn my scuba certification.
We spent an hour under water—a record
for us—hoping for a glimpse of the elusive
creature. We saw territorial triggerfish, masked
black and yellow bannerfish, and delicate
pink anemonefish ducking in and out of coral.
But no whale shark. Eventually, I kicked to the
surface expecting to be disappointed. Buoyed
by the waves, I reveled in the moment instead,
appreciating all I’d learned. The sun warmed
my face, and happiness consumed me—whale
shark not required.Thailand
Koh Tao Swimming Lessons
Brooke Vaughan, Editorial Fellow