Texas Highways – September 2019

Photo: Eric W. Pohl SEPTEMBER 2019 77

“People were wondering why Rus-
sians weren’t buying the banya,” says
Portillo, whose family made improve-
ments to the facility before reopen-
ing. “But we have worked really hard to
make it better, and now they know we
really care for the tradition.”
After several rounds of sweating and
plunging, it’s finally time to eat. Start off
with khachapuri, a Georgian cheese-
stuffed bread to dip in ajika, a bell
pepper-based paste. Follow that with a
trio of dumplings: potato-stuffed vareniki
topped with fried onions and sour cream;
minced-meat filled pelmeni in a rich
broth; and peppery khinkali, a type of
hand-pinched Slavic soup dumpling
filled with savory juices. Chef Alieva’s
version of golubtsi, Russian stuffed
cabbage, is stewed to perfection in a
slightly sweet sauce of sour cream and
tomato, and the straightforward borscht
features tender chunks of beef.
It is clear that Alieva, who’s been the
chef since the banya opened 13 years
ago, mastered each of these carefully
executed, homestyle dishes while
cooking for her large extended family.
The desserts, also made in house, include
syrniki, a creamy and lightly sweet
cheesecake, which is best eaten with a
Turkish tea digestif.
You’re likely to leave feeling like a
new person after the delightfully polar
experience of detoxing and indulging—it
might even open your mind.
“Sometimes people work really hard to
make money, but they don’t appreciate life
or enjoy the small things,” Portillo says of
the banya’s philosophy. “There are a lot of
opportunities in front of you, but you don’t
even know that they are there. If you have
peace of mind and relax, then you can see
what opportunities can bring you.”

“If you leave without

getting in the pool,

you haven’t really

experienced the

Russian banya.”

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