72 outandaboutlive.co.ukSeptember 2019
BELOWPiazza della
Loggia in Bresciain the southernDolomites, wedecidedto
linger andmakeuse of the freewalkingmap
the campsite provides.
Insunshinewehiked upMonte Mulat,
followinga gushingmountain stream
accompanied bythe noisy clangingof
bells from smallherds of cows. Werested
at a picturesque hut inmeadows dotted
withbright green larch trees andviews to
jaggedsnowy peaks. Inthe grass I found
bluegentians and orchidsand wespotted a
marmotonthe hillside.
Movingon, wecrossedthe wide valley of
the River Adige andthe scenic Passo Tonale
toPonte di Legno(whichmeans wooden
bridge). This delightful mountain resort
didn’t disappoint; it hasseveral covered
wooden bridges andpretty buildings,
mountainstreams, chic shops and
pavementcafés against analpinebackdrop.
Ineager anticipationI hurriedAnthony
upthe steephillsidefrom Capo di Ponte
tothe Archaeological Park of Seradina-
Bedolinawhich protectsover 50engraved
rocks. The BedolinaMap is at the furthest
and highest point and, reachingthe
sandstone rockI hadcomesofar tosee,I
wasmoppingmybrowin the heat, unable to
seethe ancientetchingsthroughdripping
sweat.A woman greeted me. “Caldo,” (hot)she acknowledged andI concurred. Looking
up, I realisedher lovely house andgarden
are idyllically set among the rockcarvings.
She offered two bunchesof ripecherries
fresh f rom her treeandwesatonthe rock
enjoyingthe sweetness of the fruit andthe
panoramic view.
Revived, I wasable toseethe faded
engravings onthe rockthat showanancient
neighbourhood, myfingers followingthe
paths connectingfieldsandhuts. These
arenot idledoodlesand Iconnected with
the creativity andpatienceof anearly
cartographer. Later, wewalked aroundthe
rest ofthis incredible concentrationof rock
artfinding fascinating carvingsof people
ploughing,fighting andhunting.
Wefollowedthe valley south toLakeIseo,
receiving a cheerywelcome at Camping
Covelo and acomplimentary glass of local
wine. The winemight explainwhy we
splashed out on alakesideview,butwe
never regretted it.
Swallows swooped across the lakeand
the mallardsand grebeshadducklings.
Every evening we satoutsidelistening to
the gentle sound of the waves lappingonthe
shore and watching the sun godownacross
the lake.
FromIseowetookthe train toBrescia,+TRAVEL Italy
You can also visit the
ArchaeologicalParkof
Seradina-Bedolinabytrain.
The lineruns from Brescia
through Iseo to Capo diPonte
and on to Edolo.There are
eight rock art sites in the
CamonicaValley
parcoseradinabedolina.it
Not booking sites and
keeping yourtrip flexible
means that you canfollow up
recommendations from other
campers and make themost
of local information
Campsites can be expensive
and, out of season, anACSI
card quickly paysfor itself.
Alternatively, there are sostas,
somewith electric and other
facilities and many that are
free ina car park
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