Mini Magazine – September 2019

ASK THE

EXPERTEXPERT TechTech

I am trying to find a way of

preventing it from rusting in the

future and have come up with

two ideas.

My first idea is to take a brand

new subframe and have it

galvanised. My second thought

was this: has there ever been a

company that has produced a

new stainless steel subframe, or

would this simply be too

expensive to manufacture?

Sam

Galvanising a new

subframe is a possibility

but there could be a couple of

drawbacks. The subframe is

made from fairly light material -

its strength comes from the way

in which the pieces are welded

together - so being immersed in

the huge heat of the galvanising

tank could cause it to warp and

distort. The galvanisers may well

be happy to dip the frame but

we’re sure that they’d only do it

on the understanding that it’s at

your risk.

Galvanising is also quite ‘thick’

so all threads and threaded

holes would have to be cleaned

or retapped afterwards, which

could be tricky.

We’ve never heard of stainless

steel subframes being

manufactured - someone out

there may know different...?

The best way to protect your

new subframe may be to make

sure it is thoroughly painted,

inside and out, with one of the

many excellent rustproofing

paints now on the market. Back

this up with a thorough coating

of underbody wax.

Once the car is back on the

road, make sure the subframe

gets a regular jetwashing to

remove any road dirt and salt,

and once in a while, top up the

rustproofing. If you treat it like

this, there’s no reason why it

shouldn’t last indefinitely.

TANKED UP

I’m going to fit a

new petrol tank to

my Clubman Estate. As

you know, you can see

this from the rear of the

vehicle and it’s very

exposed. What would you

paint it with so it looks

good and is protected

from the elements?

Peter

We’ve owned several

Estates and Vans over the

years, and if memory serves, it’s

usually the top of the tank which

gives out first, thanks to it being

up so close to the boot floor.

This not only means road dirt

and grime can build up in the

gap between (for that, read salt

and moisture), but it’s also a real

condensation trap. The tanks are

also prone to rotting out from

the inside thanks to

condensation, which can only

be made worse by the

increasing use of ethanol in fuel.

New tanks aren’t exactly

cheap, so well worth protecting

well before fitting. There are

loads of great paints around

now - Frost stock some great

products including a paint

which you can pour in and coat

the inside of the tank, should

you wish to go down that route.

A lot of people are using Raptor

at the moment - it’s a tough

underbody seal which gives a

hammered finish - but we have

no personal experience of this.

POR15 is meant to be very good,

and the Buzzweld CIO paints are

well loved by the Land Rover

boys - and they really know how

to abuse their vehicles...

Whatever you decided to use,

giving the fuel tank a long life is

as much down to ongoing care

rather than just that initial

coating. We’d give the top of the

tank and aperture above it a

good coat of rustproofing wax,

and periodically jetwash it off to

prevent a build up of road

debris. Also, when the Mini is not

being used, store it with the tank

full of fuel. This limits damage

from condensation buildup, but

make sure to add some stabiliser

to the fuel to stop it degrading

and separating.

PUMPED UP

My 1993 Rover Cooper

has the boot-mounted

windscreen washer reservoir.

The problem is the screen

wash barely reaches the

bottom of the windscreen

and doesn’t even get close to

the swept area, which will

cause real problems when

it’s time for the MoT. I think I

have tried the obvious

solutions - I cleaned the jets

and when that made no

difference, I changed them

for new ones. I’ve blown the

pipes through with

compressed air and

completely scrubbed out the

reservoir. The electric pump

appears to be working fine.

Is this a common problem

with the later, rear-mounted

washer bottle? Is it worth

trying to upgrade the pump?

James

There might be a couple

of things going on here.

Firstly, you say the pump

appears to be working fine, by

which you mean it whirs when

job and takes some time, but

should restore your washers

to full strength.

It’s worth bearing in mind

that these systems worked

well when new, so if

everything is as it should be,

it should still work fine and

there’s no need for any

upgraded components.

you press the washer switch.

The diaphragm within the

pump may have perished, so

although the motor spins

happily, no fluid is pumped.

Before you replace the

pump, it’s worth checking the

tubing hasn’t become

flattened or twisted,

particularly where it feeds

through the bulkhead. It might

be worth replacing it

completely. This can be fiddly,

but if you use the old tubing to

pull the new through, it can be

done. It’s better as a two man

“Giving the fuel tank a long life is as much down to

ongoing care, rather than just that initial coating”

If painted, a new subframe should last well.

ASKTHE

EXPERT TechTech

I am trying to find a way of
preventing it from rusting in the
future and have come up with
two ideas.
My first idea is to take a brand
new subframe and have it
galvanised. My second thought
was this: has there ever been a
company that has produced a
new stainless steel subframe, or
would this simply be too
expensive to manufacture?
Sam

Galvanising a new
subframe is a possibility
but there could be a couple of
drawbacks. The subframe is
made from fairly light material -
its strength comes from the way
in which the pieces are welded
together - so being immersed in
the huge heat of the galvanising
tank could cause it to warp and
distort. The galvanisers may well
be happy to dip the frame but
we’re sure that they’d only do it
on the understanding that it’s at
your risk.

Galvanising is also quite ‘thick’

so all threads and threaded

holes would have to be cleaned

or retapped afterwards, which

could be tricky.

We’ve never heard of stainless

steel subframes being

manufactured - someone out

there may know different...?

The best way to protect your

new subframe may be to make

sure it is thoroughly painted,

inside and out, with one of the

many excellent rustproofing

paints now on the market. Back

this up with a thorough coating

of underbody wax.

Once the car is back on the

road, make sure the subframe

gets a regular jetwashing to

remove any road dirt and salt,

and once in a while, top up the

rustproofing. If you treat it like

this, there’s no reason why it

shouldn’t last indefinitely.

TANKED UP

I’m going to fit a

new petrol tank to

my Clubman Estate. As

you know, you can see

this from the rear of the

vehicle and it’s very

exposed. What would you

paint it with so it looks

good and is protected

from the elements?

Peter

We’ve owned several

Estates and Vans over the

years, and if memory serves, it’s

usually the top of the tank which

gives out first, thanks to it being

up so close to the boot floor.

This not only means road dirt

and grime can build up in the

gap between (for that, read salt

and moisture), but it’s also a real

condensation trap. The tanks are

also prone to rotting out from

the inside thanks to

condensation, which can only

be made worse by the

increasing use of ethanol in fuel.

New tanks aren’t exactly

cheap, so well worth protecting

well before fitting. There are

loads of great paints around

now - Frost stock some great

products including a paint

which you can pour in and coat

the inside of the tank, should

you wish to go down that route.

A lot of people are using Raptor

at the moment - it’s a tough

underbody seal which gives a

hammered finish - but we have

no personal experience of this.

POR15 is meant to be very good,

and the Buzzweld CIO paints are

well loved by the Land Rover

boys - and they really know how

to abuse their vehicles...

Whatever you decided to use,

giving the fuel tank a long life is

as much down to ongoing care

rather than just that initial

coating. We’d give the top of the

tank and aperture above it a

good coat of rustproofing wax,

and periodically jetwash it off to

prevent a build up of road

debris. Also, when the Mini is not

being used, store it with the tank

full of fuel. This limits damage

from condensation buildup, but

make sure to add some stabiliser

to the fuel to stop it degrading

and separating.

PUMPED UP

My 1993 Rover Cooper

has the boot-mounted

windscreen washer reservoir.

The problem is the screen

wash barely reaches the

bottom of the windscreen

and doesn’t even get close to

the swept area, which will

cause real problems when

it’s time for the MoT. I think I

have tried the obvious

solutions - I cleaned the jets

and when that made no

difference, I changed them

for new ones. I’ve blown the

pipes through with

compressed air and

completely scrubbed out the

reservoir. The electric pump

appears to be working fine.

Is this a common problem

with the later, rear-mounted

washer bottle? Is it worth

trying to upgrade the pump?

James

There might be a couple

of things going on here.

Firstly, you say the pump

appears to be working fine, by

which you mean it whirs when

job and takes some time, but

should restore your washers

to full strength.

It’s worth bearing in mind

that these systems worked

well when new, so if

everything is as it should be,

it should still work fine and

there’s no need for any

upgraded components.

you press the washer switch.

The diaphragm within the

pump may have perished, so

although the motor spins

happily, no fluid is pumped.

Before you replace the

pump, it’s worth checking the

tubing hasn’t become

flattened or twisted,

particularly where it feeds

through the bulkhead. It might

be worth replacing it

completely. This can be fiddly,

but if you use the old tubing to

pull the new through, it can be

done. It’s better as a two man

“Giving the fuel tank a long life is as much down to

ongoing care, rather than just that initial coating”

If painted, a new subframe should last well.