Scale Auto – October 2019

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http://www.ScaleAutoMag.com 49

metallic blue I used on the bumpers
onto the center of the roof, beneath the
window of the driver’s side door, and
along the left rear fender. I used a
.55mm needle in my airbrush for better
precision, 9.
To add texture and definition to the
delaminated areas, I again turned to
the open-core foam and airbrushed the
lacquer thinner-flat base mix over the
same basic places as before on the roof
and immediately stippled and pushed
the wet paint with a toothpick to make
it look like flakes and chips that were
peeling up, 10. Randomness is the key.
I repeated the process on the door and
rear fender.

On the real car, the paint on the

hood didn’t peel as bad as it did on the

roof. On the model, I sprayed one coat

of lacquer-flat base mix through the

foam onto the hood. I airbrushed a dot

of the metallic blue immediately

afterward. Then carefully brushed

Tamiya flat aluminum (XF-16) into the

cracks of the ding on the front corner

of the hood for the metal beneath. A

light wash of rust went over that, 11.

I finished the front bumper the same

as the hood, again following the

patterns from the full-size Camaro.

The black paint in the headlight

recesses was beginning to suffer the

same fate as the blue, but it didn’t have

the darker blue under it. It just faded to

light, chalky gray. To get the look, I

stippled the thinned flat base with a flat

brush.

I had epoxied the damage on the left

front to hold a big flap of soft body in

place. To replicate the effect, I hand-

brushed Tamiya clear orange (X-26)

around the scar after darkening it first

with Tamiya brown panel line accent

(No. 87132), 12.

On the rear bumper, I used the panel

line accent in the scribed flap and

added a few more scrapes and

scratches to the paint with the edge of a

folded piece of 400-grit sandpaper —

one swipe per scrape. Tamiya metallic