Wine Enthusiast – October 2019

WINEMAG.COM | 103

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Kir-Yianni

Amyndeon, Macedonia

Despite a long association with its native volcanic island of Santorini, Assyrtiko has historically had

a home in other regions of Greece. Thanks to the intrepid Yiannis and Mihalis Boutaris of Kir-Yianni,

that includes an enviable situation in the Amyndeon PDO of Northern Greece. Planted in 2003 at

around 2,000 feet near the four lakes of Florina, the 30 acres of Samaropetra Vineyard contain

Malagousia, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, along with Assyrtiko. The region’s

cold winters, warm summers and lake-induced climate result in crisp but floral whites and an expres-

sion of Assyrtiko that’s less bracing minerality and more aromatic than its Cycladean cousin. Still,

poor soils give the Kir-Yianni Assyrtiko a balancing acidity and a regional salinity that offers typicity

while also speaking of its unique mountain terroir. Owner Stellios Boutaris points to Amyndeon’s

overall challenge as “achieving maturity” since a very late harvest “creates all sorts of problems for the

vines,” but says the earlier maturation dates of whites like Assyrtiko, plus a deft harnessing of reds like

Xinomavro, Merlot and Syrah at lower elevations, help viticulturist Vassilis Mylonas “produce fantastic

results” and “wines of elegance, finesse and high acidity.”

The Amyndeon

landscape and

Lake Vegoritida