BUYINGGUIDE
144 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2019cherry, earth, cocoa, graphite, coffee and herb lead
to elegant but textured, layered, tart, lip-smacking
fruit flavors. The palate is all pleasantly dialed back
considering the warmth of the vintage and region,
with an exquisite acidity and tannin balance. In
cooler days, Washington Cabernets sat squarely
between California and Bordeaux. This throwback
wine does just that. Best after 2025. Cellar Selec-
tion. —S.S.
abv: 13.6% Price: $11093
J. Bookwalter 2016 Volume 6 Dionysus Vine-
yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley).
The aromas in this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon are
brooding, with notes of char, leafy herbs, freshly
brewed coffee and spice. A full-flavored palate fol-
lows, laden with dark coffee flavors. The tannins
give a firm squeeze. A warm finish caps it off. Give it
time for the tannins to stretch their legs. Best after- Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $100
93
Leonetti Cellar 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). For the first time this
wine contains some fruit from the winery’s Holy
Roller Vineyard. The aromas pop, with notes of
blackberry bramble, coffee, barrel spice and herb.
Rich, ripe fruit flavors follow. There’s a pleasing
sense of plumpness to the flavors but also enough
acidity and tannin structure to win the race. Best
after 2026, with a long life beyond that. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $10092
Betz Family 2016 Père de Famille Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This winery
celebrates its 20th anniversary of this wine, and
what a two decades it has been. With a healthy 20%
Petit Verdot and a dash of Merlot (5%), aromas of
char, cherry, citrus, generous barrel spice, bay leaf,
plum, thyme and anise lead to elegant, classically
styled fruit flavors with lip-smacking acidity and
tannins that give a gentle but notable squeeze. It’s a
throwback wine. Leave it until at least 2025. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 13.6% Price: $7892
Gramercy 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum-
bia Valley). Pleasing aromas of cocoa, thyme,
dark coffee, graphite and cherry lead to elegant, lip-
smacking flavors that still carry a sense of richness.
Refined, subtle tannins back it up. Coffee notes
linger on the finish. The balance is spot on, and it
brings an unabashed sense of deliciousness. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $5091
Gramercy 2016 Lower East Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Columbia Valley). High-register aro-
mas of fresh and dried herbs, green pepper, plum,
pencil lead and black cherry lead to lighter-styled
fruit flavors. (Very) far from a big bruiser, it shows
a pleasing sense of elegance and a mouthwatering
quality seldom seen on this variety. It will sing at
the dinner table. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.3% Price: $3291
J. Bookwalter 2016 Protagonist Conner-Lee
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Val-
ley). Fresh herb, green pepper and roasted coffee bean
aromas are out front. Ripe black fruit and herb flavors
follow. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s a rich,
hedonistic, high octane example of the variety. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $6090
Adams Bench 2016 The V Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Columbia Valley). This winery is
known for its boldly tannic wines, and this offering
is no different. Dark cherry, cedar, blackberry, dried
herb and spice aromas lead to rich, ripe, sweet,
black fruit flavors. The tannins give a firm squeeze.
Best after 2023. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $5890
Efeste 2016 Big Papa Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Coming from vines with
at least 30 years of age, the aromas are perfumed
with notes of macerated cherry, fresh flowers, black
licorice, thyme, green herbs and black fruit. Full-
bodied, action-packed fruit and herb flavors fol-
low, with enough acidity and tannin structure to go
the distance and a sense of freshness that ups the
interest. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $6290
L’Ecole No. 41 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). Aromas of herb,
cherry and blackberry lead to supremely tannic,
highly structured fruit flavors. Almost unapproach-
able now, this wine needs significant time to stretch
its legs, but it has the stuffing to go the distance.
Best after 2025. Give it at least a 24-hour decant if
drinking in the near term. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $4090
Raconteur 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). Expressive aromas of
gun smoke, plum, black currant and green pepper
lead to a full-flavored but still well-balanced palate,
redolent with luscious black currant flavors, with
the oak seeming pulled way back. It brings a sense
of purity that delights, hitting well above its weight
class. —S.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $2090
Stevens 2016 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Yakima Valley). Light aromas of spice box,
nori, green herbs, licorice and black fruit are fol-
lowed by plump, savory black fruit flavors. Pillowy
soft tannins stand it up. It’s a unique expression of
the variety. —S.S.
abv: 14.6% Price: $4590
Willful 2017 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley). The aro-
mas provide notes of flower, soil, herb and cassis.
Firm tannins backed by bright acidity follow. It
should shine at the dinner table. It’s drinking young
at present but has great stuffing. Enjoy after 2021,
or decant. —S.S.
abv: 13.9% Price: $3690
Woodward Canyon 2016 Artist Series Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Washington). How timesflies. In the 25th iteration of this wine, aromas of
sweet barrel spice, vanilla, the blackest of cherries,
herb and scorched earth lead to creamy, well-bal-
anced fruit and barrel flavors, with vanilla extract
and cocoa notes on the finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $59RED BLENDS
94
DeLille 2016 Chaleur Estate Red (Columbia
Valley). This is the 25th vintage of the Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (63%) dominated blend, which is
rounded out with Merlot (24%), Cabernet Franc
(10%) and Petit Verdot (3%). The aromas are
brooding, with notes of scorched earth, black cherry,
licorice, graphite and barrel spice. Velvety, full-
bodied dark chocolate and cherry flavors follow. It
brings a pleasing sense of subtlety along with a lick
of acidity that augurs well for its longevity. Give it
time for the oak to integrate. Best after 2027 with a
very long life beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.3% Price: $8094
Figgins 2016 Estate Red (Walla Walla Val-
ley). In this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Verdot and Merlot, the aromas are all about
dark fruit, flower and spice, with notes of anise,
blackberry jam, soil and black cherry as well as a
generous pinch of spice following. Luscious full,
rich, highly structured fruit flavors follow. The acid-
ity balance is impressive. Its best years are far ahead
of it. Open after 2025; it will have an easy decade
or more of excellent drinking beyond that. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $8594
Leonetti Cellar 2016 Reserve (Walla Walla
Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 73%
of this wine, with the balance of a healthy dollop
of Malbec (22%) along with a smidgen of Caber-
net Franc. For the first time, this wine includes
fruit from newer estate plantings at Holy Roller
and Serra Pedace. The aromas reveal notes of cof-
fee, star anise, black cherry, plum and spice. Plump,
saturated, palate-coating fruit flavors follow with
highly structured acidity and tannins backing it up.
This wine is always more about the future than the
present, and never more so than with this vintage.
Best after 2025, with a long life beyond that. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $15093
W.T. Vintners 2016 Boushey Vineyard Rhône
Blend (Yakima Valley). This wine is nearly
equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, all
coming from contiguous blocks within this vine-
yard. The aromas are brooding, with notes of
smoked meat, lemon zest, black pepper, raspberry,
sauvage and crushed herbs. Beautifully balanced
fruit and savory flavors follow, with the mouthfeel
heightening the appeal. It will shine brightly at the
dinner table. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14% Price: $4092
B. Leighton 2016 Gratitude Olsen Brothers
Vineyard (Yakima Valley). Mourvèdre makes