Wine Enthusiast – October 2019

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up 70% of this wine, with the rest Grenache and

Syrah. The aromas aren’t ready to reveal themselves

on first pour, with aromas of raspberry, orange peel,

smoked meat and herb emerging over time. The pal-

ate shows a lovely sense of purity and detail. —S.S.

abv: 14.5% Price: $45

92

Betz Family 2016 Clos de Betz (Columbia Val-

ley). Merlot comprises 70% of this wine,

with the rest equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and

Petit Verdot. The aromas start out a bit reduced.

Currant, coffee, cedar, herb and cassis aromas fol-

low. It’s elegant but flavorful, showing a pleas-

ing sense of depth and length along with a strong

sense of acidity. Give it until at least 2025. Editors’

Choice. —S.S.

abv: 13.5% Price: $60

92

Cairdeas 2016 Consonance Red (Yakima Val-

ley). Petit Sirah makes up half of this wine,

with the rest Syrah (45%) and a pinch of Viognier.

The aromas aren’t ready to reveal their charms on

first pour, opening to reveal notes of plum, blue

fruit, smoked meat, black pepper, flower, herb and

dried tangerine peel. Plump, appealing fruit, floral

and savory flavors follow. Once it gets going, it cap-

tivates. —S.S.

abv: 14.7% Price: $42

92

DeLille 2016 Harrison Hill (Snipes Mountain).

The aromas intrigue, with nuanced notes of

thyme, green pepper, dried tobacco, dried herbs

and cherry. Light, graceful fruit flavors follow, with

enough structure supporting it to do well in the cel-

lar. Coffee notes finish it off. This lovely offering is

all about subtlety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.

abv: 13.5% Price: $90

92

Spring Valley Vineyard 2016 Estate Grown

Uriah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas are

reticent, opening to reveal appealing notes of fresh

and dried herbs. Lighter-styled chocolate and coffee

flavors follow, fleshing out with time open. At pres-

ent it’s hard to get at, but there is a lovely sense of

freshness to it and good stuffing that augurs well for

its future. —S.S.

abv: 14.5% Price: $50

ARGENTINA

MALBEC

94

Mi Terruño 2014 Mayacaba Malbec (Men-

doza). Earthy berry aromas include pastry

notes, a strong baking-spice component and a wel-

come level of jammy richness. A fleshy palate sports

balance, while handling its size. Flavors of plum and

wild berry benefit from a nice application of choco-

laty oak, while on the finish this settles on spice,

chocolate notes and dryness. Drink through 2030.

Copa Fina Imports CA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.

abv: 14% Price: $42

94

Rutini 2015 Apartado Gran Malbec (Men-

doza). Given that 2015 was a tough year in

Mendoza, especially for high-expression reds like

this, Apartado is an unbridled success. This is round,

ripe and complex on the nose, with exotic aromas

of cardamom, spiced blueberry and rubber eraser.

The palate feels naturally bold, crisp and bright, not

manipulated. Flavors of blackberry, boysenberry

and mixed spices drop off little by little on the fin-

ish. Drink for years to come; cellar through 2035.

Graziano Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.

abv: 14.5% Price: $90

94

Viña Cobos 2015 Cobos Chañares Vineyard

Malbec (Mendoza). Even in the most chal-

lenging vintages (2015), Cobos always produces at

least one stellar wine, and this is it. A pitch-black

color and ripe extracted aromas of dried cheese,

prune, blackberry and char lead to a huge palate

with soft tannins and bold acidity. Charred black-

berry, coffee and grilled steak flavors end in dark-

Fishkill Farms/Treasury Cider, Hopewell Junction, NY (credit Grant Delin)

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