Wine Enthusiast – October 2019

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A linear, dense finish is short on breadth and depth.

Vineyard Brands. —M.S.

abv: 13.9% Price: $18

89

Domaine Bousquet 2018 Made with Organic

Grapes Malbec (Tupungato). Black-fruit

aromas are bold and friendly, but simple in a good

way, meaning the nose is open and uncomplicated.

A dense, chewy palate is ripe and full, while this

Malbec tastes entirely of black fruits. A full finish

shows mild heat and tannic scour but nothing that

makes things difficult. WISD LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.

abv: 14% Price: $13

89

Graffito 2017 Malbec (Mendoza). Woody

aromas of maple and milk chocolate are

out front on the nose. On the palate, this is chunky

and working hard to maintain core balance. Baked,

lightly jammy cassis and dark-plum flavors extend

onto a slow- moving finish. Vine Connections. —M.S.

abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89

Kauzo 2016 Terroir Expressions Malbec (La

Consulta). Aromas of Graham crackers,

ripe berry fruits, black tea and subtle spice set up

a jammy palate with a borderline syrupy consis-

tency. Thick, ripe berry-fruit flavors are supported

by chocolaty richness, while this feels chewy, dense

and jammy all the way to the exit door. Go Wine

LLC. —M.S.

abv: NA Price: $22

89

Lobito De Los Andes 2013 Gran Reserva Mal-

bec (Uco Valley). A packed nose is loaded

with ripe berry and cassis aromas all aided by hints

of marzipan, cola and vanilla. In the mouth, how-

ever, this is tartaric as all get out, with sizzling acid-

ity and not nearly enough absorption. Tart, almost

lemony red-plum and currant flavors finish fiery due

to brimming acidity. The Vines of Mendoza. —M.S.

abv: 14.7% Price: $35

89

Pyros 2016 Malbec (Pedernal Valley).

I nitial coconut and vanilla aromas give

way to earthy heavy berry scents that are slightly

mulchy and overripe. On the palate, this feels raw

and choppy, with tartaric burn. Vanilla, bold oak,

mint and plum comprise the flavor profile, while

this finishes with scratchy tannins and a sappy final

impression. Palm Bay International. —M.S.

abv: 14% Price: $25

89

Viña Cobos 2015 Bramare Marchiori Vine-

yard Malbec (Perdriel). Earthy blackberry

aromas turn more mulchy, cheesy and unfresh

the longer this sits. A soft, almost overripe palate

feels boosted by tartaric acidity, while this tastes

of raisiny berry and stewy plum. Not every stone

is a gem or jewel; see this as evidence. Paul Hobbs

Selections. —M.S.

abv: 15% Price: $100

AUSTRALIA

SHIRAZ

94

Penfolds 2015 St. Henri Shiraz (South Aus-

tralia). Aged for 12 months in over 50-year-

old large wooden vats, St. Henri shows refreshing

little oak when compared to some of the brand’s

other premium reds. It’s still unmistakably Penfolds,

though: rich and polished. The nose is a downright

pretty mix of sun-ripened blueberries, mocha, vio-

lets, black olives and touches of fresh eucalyptus

leaves and Middle Eastern spices. There’s power

on the palate but elegance too. Silky with an even-

handed grip of savory fine tannins, the fruit is ripe

and plush and set up for aging. Drink now, with

decanter and protein at hand, or cellar through

2029. Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P.
      abv: 14.5% Price: $99

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