Wine Enthusiast – October 2019

(Barry) #1
WINEMAG.COM | 153

bodied and impressively structured, it shows energy,
precision and finesse, delivering juicy cherry, ripe
cranberry, licorice and tobacco. Firm, noble tannins
and fresh acidity provide the ageworthy framework.
A fantastic performance. Drink 2023–2035. Vinity
Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $60

96


Cascina delle Rose 2016 Rio Sordo (Bar-
baresco). More structured than Tre Stelle,
this is another intriguing, gorgeous Barbaresco that
shows the firm’s hallmark of elegance. It opens with
aromas of ripe, dark-skinned fruit, truffle, violet,
mint and a compelling earthy note suggesting game.
On the youthfully austere palate, tightly wound
but noble tannins and bright acidity support juicy
Marasca cherry, licorice, mint and brown spice. It’s
already tempting, but give it time to unwind and
develop even more complexity. Drink 2024–2036.
Polaner Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $60

96


Cascina delle Rose 2016 Tre Stelle (Bar-
baresco). Enticing scents of rose, violet,
menthol and nutmeg float above the glass on this
fragrant, radiant red. Elegantly structured, the
focused palate delivers raspberry compote, juicy
cherry, star anise and cinnamon. Taut, ultrarefined
tannins and bright acidity lend precision and bal-
ance. Drink 2022–2034. Polaner Selections. Edi-
tors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $60

96


Piero Busso 2015 Albesani Vigna Borgese
(Barbaresco). Tobacco, star anise, leather,
violet and dark-skinned berry are just some of the
aromas you’ll find on this full-bodied red. Firmly
structured, the palate delivers mature Marasca
cherry, raspberry, licorice and white pepper along-
side assertive, close-grained tannins and fresh
acidity. Give this time to unwind and fully develop.
Drink 2023–2035. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60

96


Sottimano 2016 Pajorè (Barbaresco). Ele-
gant and structured, this full-bodied wine
has aromas of ripe black-skinned berry, leather,
menthol and baking spice. The focused palate shows
great freshness and finesse, offering cranberry, red
cherry, vanilla and licorice set against firm, fine-
grained tannins and vibrant acidity before a tight
orange zest finish. Drink 2024–2036. Skurnik
Wines, Inc. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $70

95


Albino Rocca 2016 Cottà (Barbaresco). Bal-
samic aromas of menthol mingle with new
leather, crushed botanical herbs, iris and wild berry.
Juicy and structured, the firm but elegant pal-
ate offers ripe Marasca cherry, licorice and grilled
herbs alongside tightly knit, fine-grained tannins
and bright acidity. It’s full bodied and focused. Best
2026–2036. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $61

95


Albino Rocca 2016 Montersino (Barbaresco).
Camphor, underbrush, clove and rose petal
aromas lead the nose. The linear, focused palate
offers sour cherry, star anise and cracked herbs
alongside racy acidity and ground clove before a
saline and orange zest finish. Young and austere, it
needs time but shows great potential. Drink 2026–


  1. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O.
    abv: 14.5% Price: $NA


95


Albino Rocca 2016 Ovello (Barbaresco). Wild
berry, pressed rose and camphor aromas
mingle with a whiff of pipe tobacco. The palate is
vibrant and precise, showing ripe red cherry, orange
zest, clove and star anise alongside firm acidity and
taut but fine-grained tannins. Drink 2024–2034. de
Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

95


Bruno Rocca 2015 Rabajà (Barbaresco). Aro-
mas of dark-skinned berry, eucalyptus, blue
flower and dried mint shape the nose. Aged in both
barriques and large casks, this combines structure
and finesse, with the firm, full-bodied palate deliv-
ering mature Morello cherry, pomegranate, tobacco
and licorice set against taut, fine-grained tannins.
It closes on an orange zest note while fresh acidity
keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2029. Soilair Selec-
tion. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $110

95


Cantina del Pino 2015 Ovello (Barbaresco).
Violet, star anise, woodland berry and
camphor aromas lead the way on this elegant, firm
red. The savory, linear palate delivers juicy Mar-
asca cherry, pomegranate, licorice and orange zest
while taut, fine-grained tannins provide support.
It’s focused and balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink
2021–2030. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $65

95


Elvio Cogno 2016 Bordini (Barbaresco).
Camphor, dark spice, wild herbs and wood-
land berry aromas shape the nose. On the focused
palate, bright acidity and taut, refined tannins
accompany crushed raspberry, juicy Marasca cherry
and star anise. Mint and orange zest notes give
depth to the finish. Drink 2023–2031. Wilson Dan-
iels Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60

95


Francesco Versio 2016 Barbaresco. From
one of the denomination’s rising stars, this
radiant, gorgeous red opens with enticing aromas
of rose, iris, perfumed berry and dark spice. The
elegant, precise palate is youthfully austere at this
stage, delivering crunchy red berry, star anise and
white pepper alongside firm, fine-grained tannins.
Vibrant acidity lends balance and an ageworthy
structure. A Barbaresco for Nebbiolo lovers. Drink
2022–2036. Balanced Wine Selections LLC. Cellar
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

95


Musso 2016 Rio Sordo (Barbaresco). Under-
brush, leather, floral and tobacco aromas
are front and center on this radiant red, as well as

From stemware to storage,
pairings to parties, tastings
to ratings, Wine Enthusiast
is the number one resource for
anyone with a passion for wine.

To subscribe to Wine Enthusiast
Magazine visitWinemag.com.
For FREE Shipping on Wine
Cellars at WineEnthusiast.com.

Available on iTunesand Google Play.

Download the Wine Enthusiast
Magazine Appfor reading on the go.

tha

Free download pdf