Wine Enthusiast – October 2019

(Barry) #1

BUYINGGUIDE


154 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2019

a hint of menthol. The enveloping palate offers ripe
plum, vanilla, mocha and baking spice alongside
velvety, fine-grained tannins. 2024–2034. Panebi-
anco. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40

95


Piero Busso 2015 San Stunet (Barbaresco).
Camphor, underbrush, rose and pine aro-
mas shape the nose on this stunning red. Full bod-
ied and enveloping, the palate also shows tension,
offering crushed raspberry, black cherry and licorice
set against taut, velvety tannins. Drink 2021–2027.
T. Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60

95


Poderi Colla 2016 Roncaglie (Barbaresco).
Raspberry compote, truffle, camphor and
leather aromas lead the nose along with a hint of
hazelnut. The palate is focused and youthfully
assertive, showing red cherry, rhubarb, game, clove
and wild mint alongside tight, fine-grained tannins
and firm acidity. Give it time to fully unwind and
develop. Drink 2026 –2036. The Source Imports.
Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $68

95


Rivetto 2016 Marcarini (Barbaresco). Clas-
sic Nebbiolo aromas of red forest berry,
underbrush, new leather and rose float above the
glass on this focused red. Elegantly structured, the
racy—almost ethereal—palate boasts precision and
finesse, doling out juicy Morello cherry, raspberry,
cinnamon and thyme alongside bright acidity and
tight, fine-grained tannins. Best 2024–2036. Volio
Vino. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35

95


Rizzi 2016 Nervo (Barbaresco). Aromas of
wild berry, rose and baking spice align with
a whiff of menthol. Elegantly focused, the vibrant,
youthfully austere palate delivers crushed rasp-
berry, Morello cherry and licorice framed in taut,
close-grained tannins and fresh acidity before a
rather drying, tight finish. Give it a few more years
to fully unwind. Drink 2024–2036. The Sorting
Table. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

95


San Biagio 2016 Roggero Montersino (Bar-
baresco). Forest floor, ripe dark-skinned
berry and baking spice aromas mingle with bal-
samic whiffs of menthol. Tight and linear, the pal-
ate delivers blackberry, Marasca cherry, vanilla and
cinnamon framed in assertive, fine-grained tannins
and racy acidity. It already boasts a great depth of
flavors, but hold for even more complexity. Drink
2026–2036. Simply Stated Wines, LLC. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $40

94


Barale Fratelli 2016 Serraboella (Bar-
baresco). Rose, wild berry and leather
aromas mingle with menthol and a whiff of truffle.
The firmly structured, focused palate delivers ripe
Marasca cherry, star anise and game alongside taut,
fine-grained tannins and bright acidity. Best 2022–


  1. DJK Imports. —K.O.
    abv: 14% Price: $35


94


Boffa 2016 Pajè (Barbaresco). Forest floor,
woodland berry, rose, new leather and cam-
phor aromas take shape on this elegant, structured
red. The tense palate shows red cherry, pomegranate,
ginger and licorice while assertive, fine-grained tan-
nins and vibrant acidity give it an ageworthy struc-
ture. It’s still austere and needs a few more years to
fully develop. Drink 2024–2036. Glazer’s. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60

94


Cantina del Pino 2015 Gallina (Barbaresco).
Menthol, fragrant purple flower and red
berry aromas mingle with whiffs of dark spice. Pre-
cise and elegantly structured, the youthfully firm,
fresh palate offers cranberry, Morello cherry and
star anise framed in taut, polished tannins. It closes
on a cool note of dried mint. Drink 2021–2029. Vin-
ity Wine Company. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $60

94


Carlo Giacosa 2016 Montefico (Barbaresco).
A lovely fragrance composed of wild berry,
violet, aromatic herbs and star anise lifts out of the
glass along with a whiff of new leather. It’s vibrant,
focused and savory, delivering juicy Morello cherry,
crushed raspberry, licorice and roasted coffee bean
framed in fine-grained tannins and racy acidity.
Drink 2024–2031. Siena Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

94


Michele Chiarlo 2016 Faset (Barbaresco).
Forest floor, new leather, camphor and rose
aromas mingle with a toasted note. Linear and racy,
the precise, elegantly structured palate offers dried
cherry, espresso, orange peel and licorice alongside
firm, close-grained tannins and vibrant acidity.
Drink 2024–2036. Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $80

93


Boffa 2016 Ovello (Barbaresco). Moist
underbrush, toasted hazelnut, leather and
pressed rose aromas form the nose. The youthfully
austere palate offers sour cherry, orange zest, game
and baking spice along with a whiff of truffle before
a spearmint finish. Tight, taut tannins need time to
unwind. Glazer’s. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $70

93


Bruno Rocca 2015 Currà (Barbaresco). Iris,
violet, wild berry and a whiff of espresso
take shape in the glass. The taut, linear palate offers
dried cherry, cranberry, star anise and ground clove,
while polished tannins provide the backbone. Drink
2021–2029. Soilair Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $110

93


Cascina Luisin 2016 Rabajà (Barbaresco).
Forest floor, blue flower, leather and pipe
tobacco aromas shape the nose. Elegantly structured,
the taut palate offers sour cherry, raspberry compote,
white pepper and wild herbs, while firm, refined
tannins and fresh acidity lend finesse and balance.
Drink 2024–2034. Artisan Wines, Inc. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $NA

93


Pertinace 2016 Marcarini (Barbaresco).
Aromas of rose petal, woodland berry,

new leather and balsamic notes of menthol and
wild herbs mingle together in the glass. The firmly
structured, elegant palate shows finesse and aging
potential, delivering juicy black raspberry, Marasca
cherry, licorice and a hint of espresso alongside
fine-grained, slightly dusty tannins and bright acid-
ity. MW Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $50

93


Rizzi 2016 Rizzi (Barbaresco). Wild berry,
menthol, herb and leather aromas take cen-
ter stage along with star anise. The tightly wound
palate reflects the nose, showing red cherry, pome-
granate, licorice and tobacco alongside fine-grained
tannins and racy acidity that create a firm finish.
The Sorting Table. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA

ABRUZZO


PECORINO


91


Ciavolich 2017 Aires Pecorino (Colline Pesca-
resi). Sourced from pergola-trained vines
planted in 2000, nearly half of this Pecorino is fer-
mented in stainless steel, with the remainder fer-
mented in used barrels. Tones of ripe pineapple and
melon seamlessly meld with fresh basil and sage
on the nose and palate. It is rounded and supple
in feel, expertly honed by integrated acidity and a
light astringent finish. Selected Estates of Europe
Ltd. —A.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25

90


Talamonti 2018 Trabocchetto Pecorino
(Colline Pescaresi). A concentrated nose of
chamomile, lemongrass and yellow apple starts off
this delightful white. Rounded in feel, the wine is
loaded with plenty of citrus, peach and melon fla-
vors. Juicy acidity keeps it fresh and the flavors per-
sist through the lingering floral finish. Panebianco.
Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $16

89


Ferzo 2018 Pecorino (Terre di Chieti). A
delicate yet delightful nose of lemon peel,
melon rind, sea spray and white blossoms starts off
this elegant white. There’s a pleasing grip of tangy
minerality on the medium-bodied palate, with fla-
vors of ripe melon and tart peach pushing through.
LLS–Winebow. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $26

89


Feudo Antico 2017 Biologico Pecorino (Tul-
lum). A focused nose of flint and lemon peel
starts off this fresh, mineral-driven wine. Ripe pine-
apple and melon arise on the medium-bodied palate
and are held in check by a vibrant line of acidity.
Omniwines Distribution. —A.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25

88


Cantina Tollo 2018 Pecorino (Terre di Chieti).
A streamlined nose of Meyer lemon, melon
and chamomile starts off this fresh white. The tangy
palate is driven by tart stone fruit and citrus flavors,
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