BUYINGGUIDE
156 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 201992
Masciarelli 2013 Villa Gemma Riserva (Mon-
tepulciano d’Abruzzo). Intense ruby in color
with a saturated purple rim, this riserva displays
a heady nose of smoked cherry, dill and mentho-
lated tobacco. The dense palate shows wild berry
and dark cherry flavors studded with oak spice and
lifted by a flowing river of acidity. Fine yet copious
tannins provide a solid frame to this brooding red.
It needs time in the cellar. Drink from 2023. Vintus
LLC. Cellar Selection. —A.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $9591
Cantina Tollo 2014 Riserva (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). For full review see page 132.
abv: 13.5% Price: $2591
Cantina Tollo 2013 Cagiòlo Riserva (Montepul-
ciano d’Abruzzo). For full review see page 132.
abv: 14.5% Price: $3591
Ciavolich 2007 Fosso Cancelli (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). This unfiltered wine from Loreto
Aprutino was fermented in concrete. An earthy
nose of damp tobacco and wild herbs melds with a
condensed cherry core. There’s enviable concentra-
tion on the medium-bodied palate, driven by thick-
skinned berry flavors that hold lots of grip from
pulverized tannins. Fresh acidity lends lift to the
otherwise brooding nature of this late-release wine.
Drink now. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —A.P.
abv: NA Price: $4891
Contesa 2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
There’s a fresh, bright intensity to this wine,
with aromas of red plum, cherry, spiced barberry
and crushed, mentholated herbs. The rounded pal-
ate shows ample concentration of red and black
berries, supported by a firm grip of tannins and per-
vasive acidity. Drink from 2020. Vinifera Imports.
Editors’ Choice. —A.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $2291
Fantini 2012 Opi Riserva Vino Biologico (Mon-
tepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane).
Opaque ruby in color with purple highlights, this
offers a heady dose of dill, sweet baking spice,
spiced plum and cherry on the nose. These tones
follow through to the rich palate, with a firm web-
bing of fine-grained tannins and persistent acidity
providing structure. This is a polished, flashy style
that shows oak in the fore yet has all the stuffing to
round it out. Empson USA Ltd. —A.P.
abv: 13.5% Price: $4391
La Valentina 2015 Bellovedere Riserva (Mon-
tepulciano d’Abruzzo). A heady mix of men-
tholated herbs, tobacco and anise shows good
integration with the concentrated brandied-cherry
core on the nose of this single-vineyard wine. The
medium-bodied palate is polished and bright in red
fruit flavors that meld well with the barrel spice
tones. The tannins are well mannered yet support-
ive, extending the fruit through the lingering finish.
Drink now–2025. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —A.P.
abv: 14% Price: $4191
Terzini 2015 Vigna Vetum (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). Aromas of cherry and raspberry
jam mix with peppery spice on the moderately con-
centrated nose, with orange spice and clove giving
it lift. The palate is slick and driven by taut acid-
ity, with polished tannins offering support. Crushed
cranberry and tart black cherry flavors are framed by
the fine-grained tannins, with drying spice and cocoa
tones lingering on the finish. Wine Twist. —A.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $3590
Agriverde 2015 Solàrea (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). A dense nose of cherry, black-
berry, pepper and clove is well-integrated with
nothing out of place. Solid in stature, the palate
offers a well-built mix of ripe cherry and berry fla-
vors that are framed by polished yet copious tan-
nins and juicy acidity. Spice tones linger on the fin-
ish. Nicola Biscardo Selections. —A.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $3890
Annona 2017 Modo Antico (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). Initially very closed on the nose,
this took some time in the glass to open up. A moody
mix of dark berries, stone and wild herbs are concen-
trated on the nose and palate. It is crunchy and ener-
getic in feel, framed by pulverized, clenching tannins
and juicy acidity. Flavors of sour cherry and plum
skin extend on the finish. Drink now with a good
decant, or wait until 2021. Third Leaf Wines. —A.P.
abv: 13% Price: $2490
Ciavolich 2015 Divus (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). There’s nice lift to the nose,
displaying bright cherry, peppercorn and delicate
flowers. It is smooth on the entry to the palate,
yet a tangy energy quickly takes over and crunchy
berry fruits envelop accents of tobacco and savory
spices. The use of older barrels has given this wine a
delicate oak-tinged edge that melds nicely with the
crisp berry fruit. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd.
—A.P.
abv: 14% Price: $2390
Ciavolich 2012 Antrum (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). Sourced from vineyards in
Loreto Aprutino, this red offers bright blackberry
and cherry aromas that are underscored by nuances
of crushed granite and spice. The medium-bodied
palate is driven by tart berries and pointed acidity,
with fine, mouthcoating tannins providing a coun-
terbalance. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —A.P.
abv: 14% Price: $2790
Citra 2015 Caroso Riserva (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). A well-concentrated nose of
black cherry and berry aromas shows good integra-
tion with baking spice and tobacco tones. There’s
a smooth entry to the medium-bodied palate, with
rounded tannins and integrated acidity building
a nice home for the dense cherry and berry core.
This is a polished, modern Montepulciano that will
please many. LLS–Winebow. —A.P.
abv: 14% Price: $3090
Masciarelli 2016 Marina Cvetic Riserva S.
Martino Rosso (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo).In this wine, sourced from the winery’s San Martino
estate in Chieti, aromas of tobacco, baking spice and
grilled herbs meld with a dense dark-cherry coulis
core. The firm medium-bodied palate is silken in
feel upon entry, built by ripe cherry and dark berry
flavors. Rounded tannins provide solid support
alongside tangy acidity. It needs time in the bottle
to come together further. Drink from 2021. Vintus
LLC. —A.P.
abv: 14.5% Price: $3290
Valle Martello 2012 Prima Terra (Montepul-
ciano d’Abruzzo). Aromas of tobacco, plum
and cherry show excellent intensity on the nose.
The medium-bodied palate offers crunchy red and
dark-fruit flavors, lifted by bright acidity and sup-
ported by fine-grained tannins in the background.
Aventine Hill LLC. —A.P.
abv: 14% Price: $27GERMANY
SILVANER
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Hans Wirsching 2016 Iphöfer Julius-Echter-
Berg GG Trocken Gold Cap Silvaner (Fran-
ken). While juicy and richly textured, there’s plenty
of zip and vibe in this dry, deeply satisfying white.
Crisp pear and green plum flavors are concentrated
and fresh, finishing on zesty notes of lemon peel and
crushed stone. Drinks beautifully now, but it’s con-
centrated enough to improve through 2040 and will
likely hold much longer. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $3694
Schmitt’s Kinder 2017 Randersackerer Pfül-
ben GG Trocken Silvaner (Franken). Initial
notes of smoke and struck flint are pronounced
here but dissipate quickly, revealing layers of sunny
Asian pear, grapefruit and hazelnut. It’s a decadent
and richly textured wine balanced pertly by crisp
acidity and a tangy mineral tone. Ready to drink
now but has enough staying power to improve
through 2030 and likely hold further. Rudi Wiest
Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $6393
Hans Wirsching 2017 Iphöfer Kalb Erste Lage
Trocken Silvaner (Franken). Crisp Asian
pear, tangerine and hazelnut are touched by smoke
in this gorgeously textured but invigorating Sil-
vaner. It’s an elegant dry white with wide appeal and
a long, crushed-mineral finish. Enjoy now–2028 to
taste at peak, but it should hold further. Rudi Wiest
Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $3092
Schmitt’s Kinder 2017 Randersackerer
Trocken Silvaner (Franken). Smoke and
crushed minerals are juxtaposed against pristine yel-
low apple and tangerine in this medium-bodied but
lusciously silky wine. It’s a thirst-quenching sip ele-
vated by a long, steely finish. Ready now but should
hold through 2024. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $63