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Hans Wirsching 2017 Silvaner (Franken). This
dry, medium-bodied sip is a fantastic entry-
level introduction to Silvaner. Hints of banana peel,
lemon and pear extend from nose to finish, balanced
by crisp acidity and a lingering mineral finish. It’s
thirst-quenching but lusciously textured. Enjoy
now–2022. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $20SPARKLING WINES
95
Raumland 2013 Cuvée Marie-Luise Brut (Ger-
many). Raumland is Germany’s benchmark
producer of traditional method sparkling wine, and
this Pinot Noir bottling is a remarkable value com-
pared with Champagne of similar quality. Hints of
brioche and hazelnut on the nose extend into pris-
tine lemon, red apple and berry on the palate. It’s
delightfully soft and creamy in texture but balanced
by piercing lemon-lime acidity and a long, smoky
finish. Rudi Wiest Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $4894
Raumland 2013 Cuvée Katharina Brut
Nature (Germany). Sourced from Pinot Noir
and Pinot Meunier grown in limestone soils, this
is a particularly zesty blanc de noirs. Delicate sour
cherry, raspberry and blossom notes extend from
nose to finish, edged by hints of smoke and earth.
It’s spry and invigorating but balanced by mouthfill-
ing, creamy mousse. Rudi Wiest Selections. Editors’
Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $4894
Von Buhl 2016 Brut Riesling (Pfalz). Whiffs
of cookie crumbles and blossom introduce
this bold Riesling sparkler. The palate is loaded with
crisp pear and yellow apple flavors edged by a hint
of copper and spine-tingling acidity. It’s a rich, lux-
uriously textured wine with a long, penetrating fin-
ish. Rudi Wiest Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $4092
Nägelsförst NV Feierwerk Crémant Cuvée
Prestige Extra Brut (Baden). More linear in
style than the producer’s forward, juicy 1 Karat bot-
tling, this traditional-method sparkling is a classic
blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier
aged 36 months on the lees. Hints of toast, nut and
brioche extend into pristine lemon, lime and red
apple flavors on the palate. It’s a rich, decadently
foamy wine with a persistent, invigorating finish.
Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $NA90
Nägelsförst NV 1 Karat Crémant Blanc
de Blancs Brut (Baden). This traditional
method blanc de blancs is made from 100% Pinot
Blanc. On the nose it offers hints of smoke and bis-
cuit that mingle into juicy flavors of fresh yellow
apple and pear. It’s creamy in foam but balanced
by vibrant acidity and a clean, chalky finish. Rudi
Wiest Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $NAPINOT NOIR
94
Salwey 2015 Oberrotweiler Kirchberg Pinot
Noir GG (Baden). Prominent notes of toast,
hazelnut and smoke juxtapose pristine black cherry
and plum here. It’s a vibrantly structured wine with
a crisp, almost cutting fruit quality that feels a bit
angular in its youth. Its concentrated, structured
style suggests great potential for finesse and com-
plexity ahead. Open from 2022. It should improve
through 2030 before reaching peak and hold fur-
ther. Rudi Wiest Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $8093
Salwey 2015 Oberrotweiler Henkenberg
Pinot Noir GG (Baden). Prominent notes of
smoke, char and bramble mingle into zesty, invigo-
rating bites of crisp black plum and cherry here. Full
bodied and velvety on the palate, it’s equal parts
savory earth tones and pristine fruit but needs a
bit more time to meld. Open from 2021. It should
improve through 2030 and hold further still. Rudi
Wiest Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $5093
Stein 2015 Waechter Spätburgunder
(Mosel). Ripe, concentrated blackberry and
cherry flavors are shaded by savory tones of bram-
ble, dried herb and fur in this surprisingly weightyMosel Spätburgunder. Rich and deeply textural,
the Waechter is a marked contrast to Stein’s more
zippy, ethereal Red Light Pinot Noir bottlings. It
maintains the producer’s trademark freshness and
electricity as well as a long, lingering finish edged by
spice. Vom Boden. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $4592
Ökonomierat Rebholz 2016 Hansjörg Reb-
holz Spätburgunder (Pfalz). Intensely ripe
blackberry and mulberry perfume is accented by
smoke, incense and violet tones in this medium-
bodied but remarkably supple wine. Its ample, lus-
cious fruit profile is immediately approachable, but
it’s smartly structured, too, held upright by brisk
acidity and fine, persistent tannins. Enjoy now–- Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $49
91
Nägelsförst 2016 Engelsstaub Bühlertal
Engelsfelsen Pinot Noir Trocken (Baden).
Crisp black cherry and blackberry notes are
accented by delicate violet, smoke and crushed
mineral in this vibrant Pinot Noir. It’s full bodied
and plump in texture but invigorating, maintaining
a brisk fruit profile and zesty acidity. The finish is
long and framed by fine, soft tannins. Drinks well in
its youth but should hold through 2030. Rudi Wiest
Selections. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA