BUYINGGUIDE
B
artenders have been instrumental in
popularizing mezcal, Mexico’s misunder-
stood indigenous spirit, which is partic-
ularly polarizing. A new bar in New York
City, The Cabinet, has chosen to showcase the
spirit alongside its more well-known cousin,
Tequila, and rye whiskey.
This may seem like an unlikely trio, but
these three spirits “are always the fi rst to dis-
appear from our liquor cabinet,”
explains proprietor Greg Boehm.
The Cabinet’s mezcal list
is notable in that it includes
detailed information about not
only the spirits’ brand, but also
the mezcalero (the person who
makes the mezcal), the region
where it was made and the vari-
ety of agave used to make it.
The menu includes a fl ight of three mezcals
called “So You Think You Know Espadín?” It’s
a cheeky reference to the espadín agave variety
that’s most commonly used, but which can vary
widely in fl avor depending on where it is grown
and how it is distilled. “It’s the most terroir-
driven spirit out there,” explains spirits expertJustin Lane Briggs, who helped curate the open-
ing menu for the bar.
The latest batch of reviews heavily fea-
ture espadín-based mezcals and showcase the
variety’s range. Tasting notes skip from choc-
olate mole and sun-dried tomato richness
to spice-dusted tropical fruit to vegetal and
grassy to citrusy and bright. It’s hard to believe
all these fl avors can be coaxed from the same
variety of agave.
A handful of bottlings
loosely referred to as “unregis-
tered mezcal” are also reviewed.
These producers have opted to
skip the certifi cation process
required by Mexico’s govern-
ment to use the word “mezcal”
on the label. Yet, these agave
spirits are mezcal in everything but name and
are still very much worth seeking out.
For more information about where mezcal
is grown, how it’s produced and the variety of
agave used, be sure to check out the feature on
page 108.
Cheers!
—Kara NewmanGet to know mezcal
It’s hard to believe
all these fl avors
can be coaxed from
the same variety of
agave.97
Del Que Toma el Cardinal Espadin (Mexico;
Bowler Imports, New York, NY). Considered
to be an “unregistered mezcal”—it’s a mezcal in
everything but paperwork—this is an intriguing
stunner. A powerful, savory agave spirit, it evokes
roasting meat, dark chocolate and sun-dried tomato,
fi nishing with hints of orange peel and earthy spice.
abv: 50% Price: $4895
Los Nahuales Espadin (Mexico; T. Edward
Wines & Spirits, New York, NY). The nose and
palate on this 100% espadín mezcal reveal orange,
mango and papaya dusted with cayenne and cinna-
mon, tempered with just a hint of vanilla sweetness
on the mouthwatering exit.
abv: 47% Price: $5995
Mortal Espadin Mezcal (Mexico; Bowler
Imports, New York, NY). The zesty aroma
channels sun-dried tomato, lemon and fresh thyme.
The palate echoes these aromas, layering earthy hintsof cocoa, clove and chocolate mole. The overall eff ect
is a rounded, complex sip that melds sweet tomato
with a refreshing lemon-tinged fi nish. Best Buy.
abv: 44% Price: $3594
Alipús San Juan (Mexico; T. Edward Wines
& Spirits, New York, NY). This mezcal made
from 100% espadín off ers an inviting light coconut
aroma. A fruity and smoky core of charred pineap-
ple, burnt orange peel and coconut winds into cin-
namon sizzle, hitting all the right notes. Sip or mix
into tiki-inspired cocktails.
abv: 47.5% Price: $5293
Bozal Tobalá Reserva (Mexico; 3 Badge Bev-
erage, Sonoma, CA). The savory aroma sug-
gests tomato water and lemon, with a faint hint of
fresh basil. The palate skews less savory and more
toward a mellow, almond fl avor profi le. It’s pleas-ing nonetheless, with a drying fi nish that delivers a
lemon-pepper tang spiked and a hint of saline.
abv: 46.2% Price: $12993
Luminar Mezcal Añejo (Mexico; DWLL, Los
Angeles, CA). A rare barrel-aged mezcal,
this dessert-worthy añejo is rested in oak for one
year adding a light gold hue and bold marzipan
aroma. The palate is soft and slightly sweet, show-
ing almond and vanilla layered with cinnamon.
Repeated sips become increasingly fi ery, adding
cayenne to the mix.
abv: 40% Price: $5093
Mezcal Local Destilado con Pechuga (Mexico;
RLD Imports, Houston, TX). A mild rasp-
berry aroma leads the nose. The fi rst sips show mild
sweetness accented by brisk spearmint and saltwa-
ter, leading into a rugged exhale showing menthol
and rubbery notes.
abv: 42% Price: $5092
Erstwhile Mezcal (Mexico: Erstwhile Mezcal,
Brooklyn, NY). The distinctly vegetal aroma
teases with bell pepper, fresh basil and fresh jala-
peño. It’s green and bright on the palate too, open-
ing with a racy streak of zesty bell pepper and dried
oregano, fi nishing fi ery with lots of black pepper
and cayenne heat, as befi ts a nearly 100-proof spirit.
abv: 49% Price: $6492
Kimo Sabe Añejo (Mexico; DWLL, Los Ange-
les, CA). One of just a few barrel-aged mez-
cals available in the U.S., look for a bright gold hue
and distinct almond aroma. That almond note is
echoed on the palate, along with vanilla and sarsa-
parilla sweetness. The hot and dying fi nish winds
into insistent pepper and cayenne.
abv: 41.5% Price: $4692
Se Busca Mezcal (Mexico; Stoli Group USA,
New York, NY). Look for a mild, melon
aroma. The palate mixes sweet and spice: almond
and vanilla mingle with cinnamon and cayenne, fi n-
ishing with a rich, rounded note that suggests dried
dates and fi gs.
abv: 40% Price: $4091
Akul Joven (Mexico; MHW Ltd., Manhasset,
NY). Lime peel creates an enticing aroma,
while sweet spices lead the palate, suggesting cin-
namon, black pepper and cardamom, giving over to
a citrusy midpalate. The fi nish is fi ery and slightly
numbing with cayenne heat and the faintest mes-
quite twang. Sip or mix; consider for an adventur-
ous take on a spiced gimlet or daiquiri.
abv: 40% Price: $4091
Bozal Tepeztate (Mexico; 3 Badge Beverage,
Sonoma, CA). The fruity aroma entwines ripe
pineapple and bell pepper. The notably silky palate
opens with a pronounced petrol note, which fades
to mellower tropical fruit and fi nishes with plenty
of peppery sting.
abv: 45% Price: $80SPIRITS
158 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2019