SEPTEMBER 2019 97
and flaky texture, and the citrus zest
added just before serving brightens the
whole dish.
11 / 4 cups dashi
2 Tbsp. mirin
11 / 2 Tbsp. light soy sauce (usukuchi)
4 (3-oz.) skin-on fish fillets (snapper,
whitefish, or halibut)
1 lemon verbena sprig, or 2 scallions
finely chopped
2 oz. Japanese mountain yam
(yamaimo), grated on a Microplane
2 shiitake mushroom caps, thinly
sliced (about^3 / 8 oz.)
1 yuzu or lemon, zested, for serving
Shredded nori, for serving
- Combine dashi, mirin, and soy sauce in
a medium saucepan, and cook over
medium, stirring often, until warm, about
5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover, and
keep warm. - Bring a large pot of water to a boil over
medium-high. Divide fish among 4
(8-ounce) heatproof bowls; place bowls in
a bamboo steamer basket. Ladle^1 / 4 cup
warm dashi mixture into each bowl; add a
small leaf of lemon verbena (or sprinkle
evenly with chopped scallions). Place
bamboo steamer basket over boiling
water, cover, and steam 4 minutes. - While fish steams, stir together yam
and shiitake slices in a small bowl. When
fish has steamed 4 minutes, spoon 1
tablespoon yam mixture into each bowl.
Cover and steam 2 minutes. - Sprinkle each fillet with a pinch of yuzu
zest; serve with shredded nori.
WINE Earthy Pinot Meunier–based
Champagne: NV Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes
de Vrigny
Grilled Wagyu Rib Eye with
Roasted Fig Miso
PHOTO P. 91
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 45 MIN
SERVES 4
Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama
give tender, marbled grilled Wagyu a hit of
savory, lightly sweet flavor from the
roasted fig miso sauce. Use leftover sauce
to slather on ribs before grilling. If fresh
figs are not available, use frozen figs
rather than dried. Just make sure to thaw
them beforehand for the best texture.
6 large fresh black Mission figs
(about 12 oz.)
2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
(^1) / (^4) cup finely chopped leeks or
scallions (white and light green
parts only)
2 Tbsp. sake
2 Tbsp. mirin
(^1) / 2 cup red miso
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 (12-oz.) boneless Wagyu rib eye
steak
(^1) / (^4) tsp. black pepper
- Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss together
figs, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and^1 / 4 tea-
spoon salt on a rimmed baking sheet.
Bake in preheated oven until figs are
slightly caramelized and soft, about 20
minutes. - Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in
a medium saucepan over medium. Add
chopped leeks, and cook until soft, about
1 minute. Add sake and mirin, and cook,
stirring often, until liquid is reduced by
half, about 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low.
Stir in miso, and cook, stirring often, until
mixture thickens and darkens in color,
about 5 minutes. Remove miso mixture
from heat. - Using a fork, break cooked figs apart,
removing stems. Combine figs, miso mix-
ture, and balsamic vinegar in a food pro-
cessor. Pulse until mostly smooth, about
20 times. Set aside. - Preheat grill to very high (550°F to
600°F). Season rib eye with pepper and
remaining^3 / 4 teaspoon salt. Place on oiled
grates; grill, covered, until a meat ther-
mometer registers 130°F, about 4 min-
utes per side. Remove from grill, and let
rest 5 minutes. While steak rests, heat fig
miso over low. Slice beef, and serve with
fig miso.
MAKE AHEAD Fig miso may be made up to
3 weeks ahead. Cover and chill until ready
to serve.
WINE Complex, savory rosé: 2017 Clos
Cibonne Tibouren
Persimmon and
Chrysanthemum Greens
Ohitashi
PHOTO P. 93
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 4
In this dish from Prairie Stuart-Wolff,
sweet, plush, and lightly tart persimmons
are the perfect balance to spinach-like
chrysanthemum greens. If you can’t find
them, look for a green that wilts but
remains crunchy, like arugula, spinach, or
baby kale.
1 medium-size ripe Fuyu persimmon
1 Tbsp. fresh or bottled yuzu juice
61 / 2 oz. edible chrysanthemum greens
(shungiku) or arugula
21 / 2 tsp. sesame oil
(^1) / 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
(^1) / 2 tsp. light soy sauce (usukuchi)
(^3) / 8 tsp. kosher salt
- Using a Y-shaped vegetable peeler,
remove and discard thick persimmon
skin. Cut into wedges, and cut into
smaller bite-size chunks. Place in a
medium bowl; add yuzu juice, and toss to
coat. Set aside. - Place greens in a large saucepan, and
add water to cover. Bring to a boil, and
cook until just blanched, about 30 sec-
onds. Immediately transfer greens to a
bowl of ice water. Squeeze greens, remov-
ing as much water as you can. (You
should have about^1 / 2 cup squeezed
greens.) Chop greens into^1 / 2 -inch pieces.
Add chopped greens to persimmon mix-
ture; toss to combine. Stir in sesame oils,
soy sauce, and salt.
MAKE AHEAD Ohitashi may be prepared
up to 6 hours ahead; keep chilled until
ready to serve.
Steamed Whitefish Yamakake
PHOTO OPPOSITE PAGE
ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 20 MIN
SERVES 4
An intensely concentrated broth and rich
shiitake mushrooms contrast with deli-
cate whitefish in this recipe from Niki
Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama.
Gently steaming the fish gives it a light