120 SEPTEMBER 2019
AT MY TABLE from p. 122Jerk-Grilled Lobster
PHOTO P. 122
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 35 MIN
SERVES 4Infusing melted butter with a blend of jerk
seasonings lightly tames the heat of
Scotch bonnet chiles and creates the per-
fect basting medium for fish and shellfish.
Gail Simmons uses it for basting lobster
on the grill, where the butter imparts jerk
flavor quickly and easily to the tender,
sweet grilled tails and claws.11 / 2 bunches scallions (about 12
scallions), divided
3 Tbsp. chopped peeled fresh ginger
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 Scotch bonnet chile, stemmed,
seeded, and chopped(^1) / (^4) tsp. ground allspice
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
(^1) / 2 cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), cubed
1 Tbsp. canola oil
(^1) / 4 tsp. black pepper
4 (1^1 / 2 -lb.) live lobsters, halved
lengthwise and cleaned, claws
detached and reserved
1 lime, cut into wedges
- Coarsely chop 6 of the scallions. Place
chopped scallions, ginger, lime juice,
thyme, garlic, chile, allspice, and^3 / 4 tea-
spoon salt in a food processor. Pulse until
a coarse paste forms, 6 to 7 times, scrap-
ing down sides a few times between
pulses to evenly incorporate. - Melt butter in a small saucepan over
medium-low. Whisk in jerk paste until
combined, and remove from heat.
Reserve^1 / 4 cup jerk butter in a small bowl
for serving. - Preheat grill to medium-high (400°F to
450°F). Toss together canola oil and
remaining whole scallions in a large bowl;
season with pepper and remaining^1 / 4 tea-
spoon salt. Place scallions on oiled grates,
and grill, uncovered, turning occasionally,
until lightly charred and tender, about 5
minutes. Set aside. - Using long metal or wooden skewers,
skewer lobster body halves lengthwise.
(This will help keep them straight while
grilling.) Brush lobster meat evenly with
about 2 tablespoons remaining jerk but-
ter. Place skewered lobsters, meat sides
down, and reserved lobster claws on oiled
grates, and grill, uncovered, until shells
begin to turn red, about 4 minutes. Flip
claws and bodies, and brush cut sides of
tails with remaining jerk butter. Continue
grilling until meat is cooked through,
about 4 more minutes for bodies and 5 to
6 more minutes for claws, turning claws
occasionally. Remove from heat, and
remove skewers. - Arrange lobsters and charred scallions
on a platter. Gently rewarm reserved^1 / 4
cup jerk butter, if needed. Serve lobster
tails and claws with jerk butter and lime
wedges. —GAIL SIMMONS
MAKE AHEAD Jerk butter may be made up
to 2 days ahead. Cover and chill until
ready to use.
high. Reduce heat to medium, and sim-
mer, stirring occasionally, until flavors
meld, about 30 minutes.- Meanwhile, whisk together achiote
paste and^1 / 4 cup simmering broth mixture
in a small bowl until blended and smooth.
Whisk achiote mixture and ground pepita
mixture into simmering broth in pot.
Return to a simmer over medium. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until stew has thick-
ened slightly to the consistency of heavy
cream, about 30 minutes. Stir in remain-
ing^1 / 4 teaspoon salt. Gently return cooked
chicken pieces to stew. Increase heat to
medium-high, and cook until warmed
through, about 5 minutes. - To serve, divide chicken pieces among
6 serving bowls; ladle stew over chicken.
Garnish with chopped cilantro and mint.
Serve with chile-cacao spice mix, tortillas,
and rice. —MARICEL PRESILLA
WINE Silky, berry-rich Zinfandel: 2017
Dashe Cellars Les Enfants Terrible
NOTE Look for achiote paste (a blend of
annatto, oregano, black pepper, garlic,
and warm spices) at Latin markets.
Sole with Smoky Chile Butter
ACTIVE 15 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN
SERVES 4Broiling the fillets hot and fast delivers
tender, flaky fish and browns the smoky
chile compound butter with practically
zero effort. Use cultured butter here,
because it’s typically higher in butterfat,
has a greater depth of flavor, and browns
more quickly.1 cup unsalted cultured butter
(8 oz.), softened
13 / 4 tsp. sweet smoked paprika
11 / 2 tsp. smoked flaky sea salt (such as
Maldon), plus more for serving
11 / 2 tsp. piment d’Espelette or Aleppo
pepper
2 lb. slip sole (small Dover sole) fillets
or flounder fillets- Stir together butter, paprika, smoked
salt, and piment d’Espelette in a small
bowl until combined. Spoon butter
mixture into middle of a square of parch-
ment paper or wax paper. Roll into a
6-inch log; twist ends to seal. Refrigerate
until firm, about 1 hour.- Preheat broiler to high with oven rack 6
inches from heat. Rub 1 tablespoon butter
mixture on a rimmed baking sheet, and
top with fillets, leaving gaps between
fillets to allow for even cooking. Dot each
sole fillet with 1^1 / 2 to 2 tablespoons butter
mixture. - Broil until fish is opaque and flaky, 8 to
10 minutes, basting with remaining butter
mixture a couple of times during broiling.
Remove fish from oven, and let rest on
baking sheet 4 minutes. Divide fillets
among plates; lightly sprinkle servings
with smoked salt. —STEPHEN HARRIS
MAKE AHEAD Prepare the butter ahead of
time; refrigerate up to 1 week or freeze up
to 1 month.
WINE Fresh, lemony English sparkling
wine: 2013 Gusbourne Brut Reserve