Food & Wine USA – September 2019

(Joyce) #1

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WITH ITS MIX OF SOUTHERN STAPLES, Lowcountry flavors, and
small-city cool, Savannah’s buzzy dining scene is a hot spot for food
lovers craving a little bit of everything—especially if you can drizzle
hot sauce on it. Known for its Spanish moss–draped streets and laid-
back pace, Georgia’s oldest city has a new breed of culinary stars
putting a fresh spin on regional favorites.

Regional Revival
Famous for its historic districts and
mansions turned into museums and
restaurants, Savannah has a flair for
repurposed spaces. The duo behind
The Grey—both native New Yorkers—
meticulously restored a 1938 Art
Deco–style Greyhound bus terminal to
house their hip eatery. As local as it gets,
the menu is “Port City Southern” with
elevated dishes like beef tartare, pickled
turmeric, quail egg, and sourdough tuile.

Classic Style
Step back in time at Elizabeth on 37th,
housed in an elegant 1900s mansion
and featuring a Southern coastal menu
inspired by homegrown herbs and
handwritten recipes from the Georgia
Historical Society. Another bastion of
Georgian glamour, 700 Drayton, at the
historic Mansion on Forsyth Park, serves
up a refined spin on local fare, such as
Southern-spiced Scottish salmon with
farro and Savannah honey-glazed chicken.

Redefined Recipes
In the heart of the historic district,
Husk has set out to redefine what it
means to cook and eat in the South
with a millennial-like focus on seasonal
ingredient–driven menus, heirloom
products, and innovative preparation—
although there’s still room for pimento
cheese and benne wafers. The restaurant’s
curated list of suppliers includes nearby
farms specializing in herbs, organic
produce, and even Georgia-made EVOO.

Soulful Eats
There might be a line for lunch at Mrs.
Wilkes Dining Room, but locals will
swear it’s worth the wait for family-style
helpings of candied yams, mac-and-
cheese, and fried chicken. If you’re after
legit soul food, residents will point you to
ultra-casual eateries like Narobia’s Grits
& Gravy for crab stew and fried fish, or
Sisters of the New South for hefty sides
of collard greens and lima beans.

Global Edge
This coastal city has worldly flavors,
too—from Lili’s Restaurant and Bar
on Wilmington Island, serving up
internationally infused dishes such as
tandoori-spiced chicken and waffles, to
The Deck, an Aussie-style beach bar and
restaurant on Tybee Island. The buzzy
Melbourne-inspired restaurant group,
which owns the seasonal beach bar,
launched with The Collins Quarter in 2014
and added the year-old Fitzroy last year.

What to Feast On


Next in Savannah

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