62 WORLD’S BEST RESTAURANTS SEPTEMBER 2019
A
S
I
A
&
A
U
S
T
R
A
L
I
A
One of the most memorable
dishes I’ve had all year was the
crispy sea cucumber that arrives
about halfway through the
10-course tasting menu. Stuffed
with a mousseline made from
female mud crab, the spiny beast is
then placed atop a vibrant yellow
sauce made from the roe of the
crab and thickened with a whole
egg. A spritz of 22-year-old Shaoxing
wine finishes the dish.
The things I love about Vea are,
unsurprisingly, the things that make
Hong Kong such a unique and won-
derful place. It is stylish and fun,
modern but with many elements
that are traditional, international
while remaining true to its roots. In
that way, Cheng is doing more than
just feeding people delicious food:
He is representing his hometown,
and he’s doing it with heart.
YOUR FIRST IMPRESSION of Vea will
likely be the deep sense of whimsy:
Diners sit at an undulating counter
facing the kitchen, and the first
courses to come out include a choux
puff made with salted fish and bok
choy that arrives atop a music box
playing a wistful tune. One dish
comes nestled in a full bird’s nest,
another with a scroll of poetry on
the side. The theater is palpable.
All if this could easily veer into the
realm of self-serious pretension, but
the tone is lighthearted and joyous.
Chef Vicky Cheng was born in Hong
Kong, but much of his training was
in the U.S., working under European
chefs—most notably at Daniel in
New York City. At Vea, he combines
many of the techniques he learned
with traditional Chinese ingredients,
focusing on seasonality and creativ-
ity. The results are stunning.
VEA
HIGHLY COMMENDED
Ju Xing Home deserves special
mention for its traditional Can-
tonese dishes that used to be
cooked in many homes but are
now hard to find. For that reason
it is beloved by Hong Kong chefs
and large family groups alike;
fresh seafood cooked in fragrant,
herb-laden broth is a specialty.
HONG KONG, CHINA
clockwise: Smoked
quail eggs; fish maw with
caviar and quinoa; the
private dining room at Vea.
PHOTOGRAPHY (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT): JONATHAN MALONEY, COURTESY OF VEA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE (2)
