76 SEPTEMBER 2019
H
A
N
D
B
O
O
K
Crispy Ricotta-Kale Tacos
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 45 MIN
SERVES 4You’ll see requesón in taco fillings in the
central and northern states in Mexico.
Whole-milk ricotta works well as a substi-
tute; be sure to let it drain for 15 minutes
before using. Leftover salsa is delicious
slathered on grilled or roasted swordfish
and lamb or with plantain chips for dipping.SALSA
1 lb. fresh tomatillos, husks removed
1 unpeeled garlic clove
11 / 4 tsp. kosher salt(^1) / 3 cup chopped salted roasted
pistachios
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 small serrano chile, finely chopped
(about 1 Tbsp.)
1 Tbsp. thinly sliced scallion
TAC O S
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 cups packed thinly sliced kale
1 tsp. plus a pinch of kosher salt,
divided
(^1) / (^2) tsp. plus a pinch of freshly ground
black pepper, divided
8 (6- to 8-inch) corn tortillas
1 (15-oz.) container requesón or
whole-milk ricotta cheese, drained
in a colander 15 minutes
(^1) / 3 cup canola oil
- Make the salsa: Preheat broiler to high
with oven rack in upper third of oven.
Place tomatillos and garlic in a 10-inch
cast-iron skillet. Broil in preheated oven
on upper rack, turning often, until evenly
charred and tomatillos begin to release
some of their liquid, about 10 minutes.
Remove from skillet, and set aside. When
garlic is cool enough to handle, remove
and discard peel. Place tomatillos, garlic,
and salt in a molcajete or mortar and
pestle; mash until pulpy in texture. (To
use a blender, pulse until roughly
chopped, about 3 times, keeping some of
the texture.) Transfer tomatillo mixture to
a bowl, and stir in pistachios, lime juice,
chile, and scallion.
2. Make the tacos: Heat olive oil in a clean
10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium. Add
kale, a pinch of salt, and a pinch of pep-
per. Cook, stirring often, until kale is
slightly wilted, about 4 minutes. Transfer
to a medium bowl, and set aside to let
cool slightly. Wipe out skillet.
3. Working with 1 tortilla at a time, place
tortilla in skillet. Cook over medium until
pliable, about 15 seconds per side. Wrap
warmed tortillas in a clean kitchen towel,
and set aside. Add drained requesón,
remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and remaining
(^1) / 2 teaspoon black pepper to kale; stir until
combined. Spoon about^1 / 4 cup cheese fill-
ing down center of each tortilla; fold in half.
- Add canola oil to skillet, and heat over
medium-high until oil is shimmering but
not smoking. Add a few tacos at a time,
and fry until golden and lightly crisp, 20 to
30 seconds per side. (You’re not deep fry-
ing until jaggedly crispy; you’re only pan-
frying for a little texture.) Drain tacos on a
baking sheet lined with paper towels.
Serve immediately with salsa.
BEER Hoppy, piney IPA: Sierra Nevada
Torpedo Extra IPA
MEXICO IS CHEESE COUNTRY. Beyond the melty
cheeses like quesillo, queso Chihuahua, and Mexican
Manchego, there are also farmer cheeses like adobera,
panela, and, one of my favorites, requesón. Similar to Italian
ricotta, requesón has a fluffy texture that makes for a
satisfying taco filling. In Mexico, the best requesón tacos are
served at cenadurías, old-school pop-ups that home cooks
set up in their living rooms. At our house in Los Angeles,
my wife Paola amps up her take on requesón tacos by
adding kale to the filling and serving them with a punchy
pistachio-studded salsa verde. They’re perfect when you
want something a little lighter for dinner but still need your
daily dose of vitamin T(aco). —JAVIER CABRALCheese, Please Fluffyrequesón cheese lifts thiskale-stuffed taco riff.F&W COOKS
featuring
PAOLA BRISEÑO
GONZÁLEZ & JAVIER
CABRAL