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http://www.completekitcar.co.uk September 2019 95TREVOR
CROUT
Project:
Tornado TSC GT40
Age: 69
Occupation:
Retired
Project Start Date:
September 2015Trevor may be well advanced on his build,
but he’s still keen to learn new skills to improve what he’s doing.
NEW TRICKS
I
have sent the rear subrame to be sandblasted and, when
I get it back, I will spray the frame with U-Pol Weld
rough Copper Rich Primer so that it can be attached to
my chassis ready to accept the ‘parrot beaks’ (covered last
month) and make it ready for painting. I had the rollers for
the ‘beaks’ made in steel. I am not sure about this and I think that
they would be better in Delrin plastic as aluminium to steel to my
mind is best avoided.
I had a ‘lightbulb moment’ when I was trying to work out how
to make and t the front jacking points. e Tornado TS40 is
designed to have a front pivoting bonnet similar to the Triumph
Spit re that I owned, but sold to help nance the GT40 replica
build. In fact, the original car had a removable front clip. is did
not pivot, but was unclipped and removed in the same way as most
modern GT racing cars, it was pulled forward o the chassis. I have
drawn up templates for the front and rear lifting points. ey were
fabricated from 1.5mm steel. I have not tried to cut mild steel on
my CNC machine yet, but it is worth trying as I do like to do as
much as I can myself. I will have to get the welding done as that is
still on my list of new things to learn.
I have just laid up the GRP for the nearside fuel tank cover
plate. As with most of my projects, I had at least three attempts
before I got a good set! Practice does make things better. I have
read up on and watched videos to learn as much as I can about
using GRP and I am pleased with my latest e orts. I have made
templates of the area to be covered and I hope to get both sides
completed within a week.I now have good information on the GRP moulding that
covered the gearlever operating mechanisms on the original car.
After I have tted the fuel tank cover to the driver’s side, I will
modify my early attempt to be more like the original. e kit’s
gearchange set-up is simple and e ective. e lever is a round rod
which passes through a rosejoint screwed into a boss welded onto
the chassis. e lever has circlips each side of the rosejoint to locate
the lever in position. is allows full three-dimensional motion to
the gear selection rod. I intend to change the shape to a rectangular
cross section and to lengthen it.
e Shelby cars had inserts for the stub axles. I am not sure
why these were made. I can only assume that they were for
reinforcement. I have obtained a set and they are complex in design.
I have not been able to see if they will t my stub axles without
modi cation. e rear halves of the tting were expanded by
holding a special tool similar to the spanner used when tightening
a cutting wheel on a grinder. A nut was put onto the tapered centre
bolt which had a roll pin to stop it rotating as it was in a slot. is
expanded the four sections against the inside of the stub.
I have made correct FoMoCo style marker lights used for
illuminating the racing number when racing at night. I spent many
hours making the rst ones only to nd that Holman Moody cars
had Ford numberplate lights with Ford logo and the Shelby cars
had FoMoCo. I remembered that I had used LED numberplate
lights on my MG, I bought six from Car Builder Solutions which
t nicely into my new lights and I will have working lights, carefully
shrouded of course to prevent white light showing from the rear.New design for hollow jacking point. Stub brace design on CAD.Original FoMoCo marker light. Car Builder Solutions plate light. Stub cap as tted to another car.092 Running Reports.indd 95 01/08/2019 12:50 pm