September 2019 / 107
AsthemastermindbehindOptiphiexplains,it’s
theactiveingredientsthatmakeallthedifference
Taking aTourof SouThern
group’S campuS inireneiS aS
impoSing aS iT iS impreSSive.Iarrived
expectingtogainsomeinsightintoaproudlySouthAfrican
skincarebrand,delvingintohowitaimstostandoutinavery
crowdedenvironment.Iwasn’texpectingtofindagroupof
companiesthat’sleadingandinnovatingineverycorner–and
agroupwhosecollectiveexpertiseiswelcomedandsolicited
fromallovertheglobe.
- TheAmOunT
OfbIOmedIcAl
engIneerIngThAT
TAkeSplAcehereIS
STAggerIng.Formedin
1987,thegrouphaditsstart
developingandmanufacturing
dentalimplantsata timewhen
theunderlyingsciencewasstillin
itsinfancy.Sincethen,thegroup’s
implantsdivisionhaspioneered
implantintegration,surgical
techniques,patienteducation
andtreatmentoptions,andhas
becomea significantroleplayerin
thisfieldglobally.Understanding
howtodesignandmanufacture
dentalimplants,andestablishing
andmaintainingthestandards,
ledthegrouptoestablish
SouthernMedical,whichdevelops
orthopaedicandneurosurgical
implants– foreverything
includingspinalsurgery,foot
surgeryandfacialsurgery– along
withtheequipmentneededto
carryouttheseprocedures,right
downtothevery(complex)
operatingtables.
Thegroup’sbiomedicalquality
standardsallowedforexploration
intootherfields,alongwith
creatingartificialheartvalves,
andwoundcare,witheverything
fromhoney-basedointmentsto
temporaryskinsubstitutesto
allowpatientstorecoverfrom
severeskintraumaslikeburns.
Atthebeatingheartofthis
operationis DrMalandeVilliers,
thegroupMDandvisionary
behindthemulti-armedgroup
andfounderofSkinRejuvenation
Technologies.SaysDrDeVilliers,
‘I spoketoa plasticsurgeon
whosaid,“You’vegotwonderful
scientists,they’refocusedonthe
skin.Whydon’tyoudevelopthe
bestskincareproduct?”’
Thatproductis Skin
Rejuvenation’sflagshipbrand,
Optiphi,createdspecificallyto
targetthefactorsthatcontribute
toaging.Liketherestofthe
group’sproducts,it wasdeveloped
withscienceinmindfrom
thebeginning.‘Optiphiis at
theforefrontofwhatskincare
corporationscanofferyou,’
DrDeVilliersexplains.‘Wehave
anintimateknowledge,dueinpart
toourexperiencewithmedical
devicedesign,wealsohave
expertisenotonlyincellbiology
andgeneticsbutalsoincoating
design,forinstance,sowedesign
themosteffectivecarriertogetthat
activeingredientintoyourskin.’
Marketing,packagingor
brandperceptionaside,thereal
successfactorinanyskincare
brandis thequalityofitsactive
ingredients.‘Mostskincare
brandsbuypre-developedactives
frombigactive[producers].We
particularlypossessthecapability
ofdevelopingourownactives,and
ourowndeliverymechanisms.We
collaboratewithacademicplastic
surgeonsallovertheworld,and
ourteamcross-pollinates[their
knowledge]withourwoundcare
team,’saysDrDeVilliers.
Researchanddevelopment
guidethewayforwardhere,
asDrDeVilliersexplains
Optiphi’sapproachtocreating
newformulations.‘We’ve
patenteda wayofindividualising
skincaretreatments,becausenot
everyonehasthesameskin.The
moisturiserthatworksforme
maynotworkforyou.Welook
atyourskin,welookatyour
DNAandwelookatalltheaging
factors– whatyourskinhasthe
propensitytodo,alongwiththe
thingsyou’vedonetoyourskin
intermsofsundamage.From
thatwedeterminea score,and
thescorehighlightsmajorareas
ofconcernuniquetoyou.We
thenlookattheproductsthatyou
shouldbeusing.Thenwelookat
theactivesintheproduct,andwe
scoretheproductsaccordingto
theactiveswithinit.’
Howdoesthistranslatetothe
actualproduct– andhowdoyou
knowwhichrangeis rightforyou?
‘Manybrands[continuously]bring
outnewranges.If weimprovethe
originalproduct,wedon’tneed
tocreatesomethingnew.If the
product’sefficacyagainstwrinkling
goesfrom 12 to14,forexample,
wedon’twanttoexpandtherange
totheextentthatit becomes
unmanageable– wewouldrather
justreformulatetheexisting
product,’saysDrDeVilliers.
Andit’sanapproachhehopes
willfurtherimpacttherest
oftheindustry.‘Withinour
group,wehaveeachdiscipline
focusedonitsownareaof
expertise,butthey’reallmedical
devicecompanies,sothere’s
a naturalcross-pollination
thatoccurs.Manufacturing
machiningproductsis different
tomakingheartvalves,but
theybothhavetocomplywith
thesame[kindsof ]quality.
There’salwaysa differentway
ofdoingsomething,andyou
seeit muchmoreclearlywhen
you’reinvolvedinallthedifferent
aspectsofthebiggerpicture.’
- Nkosiyati khumalo
The science
of skincare
Styling by Robyn-
lee P
Reto
Riu
S; Photog
R a P
hy by Ka
Rl Roge
RS
gq. co. za
Optiphi intense Retinol infinity
serum R1 445; Optiphi Moisture
Control Ultra R2 010; Optiphi
ageless active Gel R1 745