40 FineScale Modeler October 2019
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Even with all the details I’d added to the crane, it still needed a cable
and hook after paint.22
Making side-marker and reflective decals with paint was a new
technique for me, and I think it worked well.
The kit bumper was a solid no. I made a
new bumper by laminating strips of .020-
inch sheet styrene and punched holes in the
top strip to simulate recessed taillights. I
also used a punch-and-die set to make
rings for the reflectors and light housings.
The side markers on the end are resin casts
from the mold I made earlier, 18.
The upper umbilical on the missile
boom has a quarter round to guide the
wires. On the lower end is a large connector
to group all the wires. I made both from ⅛-
inch pipe caps and used Milliput to finish
the shapes. Both umbilicals were then cov-
ered with fiberglass to have a realistic can-
vas look. Thin lead sheet cut into strips
simulated tie-down straps, 19.
I primed the trailer with Tamiya olive
drab (XF-62). A couple of washes with
Winton Oils sap green and raw sienna
weathered underneath nicely. A black pin-
wash brought out the details. I also painted
the tow pintle with Alclad II polished alu-
minum (No. ALC105) and followed up
with a mix of Mig pigments to create the
greasy black area where the fifth wheel con-
nects. A mix of white glue and earth-tone
pigments simulated mud, 20.
The kit tires were bad and had Martin
Marietta molded on them. I opted for tires
from an Italeri M923 (No. 279); right size,
wrong tread, but close enough.
I weathered the tires with the same
earth-tone pigments used for the mud. The
hydraulic lifters were finished with Alclad
II polished aluminum (No. ALC105). The
canvas and straps on the boom received a
coat of Model Master dark green
(FS34079) and field green (FS34097)
respectively.
A wash of Mig Allied green (No. P036)
gave the paint on the large exposed areas up
top a worn look. A pinwash of black artist
oils brought out the grate details, 21.
For the side markers and reflectors, I
base-coated decal paper with white primer,
followed with Alclad II chrome (No.
ALC107). After that dried, I airbrushed a
coat of Tamiya clear red (X-27) or clear
orange (X-26). I cut them to the appropri-
ate size and and applied them, 22.
The cable on the davit crane is 22AWG
stranded wire. The end crimps were made
from soft lead and I found a shackle and
hook in my spares box. The two hydraulic
lines from the controls to the boom are
.032-inch black insulated wire, 23.
I finished the warhead container with
olive drab, a black pinwash, and Model
Master flat clear (No. 4636). After every-thing was dry I mounted the container in
the position for the missile to be assembled.
The Pershing missile itself was painted
Tamiya flat black (XF-1) and then olive
drab. A black artist oil pinwash brought out
the details. I replaced the kit decals with
Woodland Scenics Condensed Gothic dry-
transfer letters (No. MG738). A coat of flat
clear sealed the work, 24.
I connected the boom to the missile
with .060-inch styrene rod painted polished
aluminum, 25.
To make the heater hose, I coiled
26AWG stainless steel wire and covered
it with aircraft tissue saturated with
Woodland Scenics scenic cement
(No. S191). A coat of flat black finished
the job. Six lengths of .032-inch black insu-
lated wire comprise the harness with soft
lead for cable ties. The hydraulic hoses for
the lifters are .026-inch black insulated
wire, 26.
I made a base for my completed and
detailed M757A1 erector/launcher and
Pershing 1a missile and mounted on it the
nameplate included in the kit. I finished off
the build with a Russian ruble made with
metal from crushed missiles commemorat-
ing the treaty that removed the Pershing
from service. FSM20
There wasn’t a ton of opportunity to dirty up the trailer, but I took
advantage of what little there was.
Washes help to make details pop, but also to lend that weatherworn,
used look that so many military vehicles take on.