14 – SEPTEMBER 2019
IF YOU CAN
PICK OUT
PAPPARDELLE
FROM PACCHERI
If you’relooking for a
fall cooking
project, look no
further than
Evan Funke’s
American
Sfoglino($35,
September),
his deep dive
into the art of
fresh hand-
rolled sheets.
He begins with
four base
doughs, then
moves through
14 shapes,
from tagliatelle
to garganelli,
and the sauces
that suit them
best. Think
triangoli with
honey and
pecorino and
pappardelle
with wild
boar ragù.
—MOLLY BAZ,
SENIOR FOOD EDITOR
IF H MART
IS YOUR
HAPPY PLACE
When I moved from
L.A. to New York, I lost
something essential:
access to my Korean
friends’ moms, who
had introduced me to
homemade kimchi and
cold naengmyeon.
Thankfully, when I was
at my most homesick,
I found Maangchi,
a.k.a. Emily Kim, who
showed me how to
tenderize galbi and
make a superfast
kimchi jjigae through
her blog and YouTube
channel. Reading
Maangchi’s Big
Book of Korean
Cooking ($35,
October) is like being
on a WhatsApp
chain with my friends’
moms. There are
photos of ingredients
to buy (Sempio soy
sauce, tubes of soft
tofu) and recipes that
go beyond KBBQ
(chicken ginseng soup,
Korean temple–style
vegetables), all in the
same tone that makes
Maangchi feel like
everyone’s auntie.
—ELYSE INAMINE,
DIGITAL RESTAURANT
EDITORIF YOU REACH
FOR LABNEH ON
THE REG
I’m rabid for the
halvah in Tel Aviv–
based food writer
Adeena Sussman’s
demure first book,
Tahini. So as soon as
I opened Sababa
($35, September), her
guide to everyday
Israeli food, I beelined
for the sweets in the
back. But I kept getting
sidelined along the
way. I flagged the
long-cooked Romano
beans, the tahini-
glazed carrots, and so
many other recipes that
were both simple and
surprising. I never did
find a halvah recipe,
but I did find a halvah-
stuffed coffee cake.
And that will surely do.
—DAVID TAMARKIN,
DIGITAL DIRECTOR,
EPICURIOUSIF MAPO TOFU
IS YOUR LOVE
LANGUAGE
I’ve been cooking
and studying recipes
for 20 years, but I
could spend the next
10 with Fuchsia
Dunlop’s The Food
of Sichuan ($40,
October)—an updated
version of her seminal
2003 book, Land of
Plenty—and I’d learn
something new every
single day. Dunlop’s
scholarly expertise is
tempered by the
clarity of her writing,
and she’s actually
got me thinking I can
make numbing-and-
hot dried beef, fish-
fragrant cold chicken,
and traditional dan
dan noodles. There’s
an encyclopedic
amount of information
in here about the
Sichuan larder,
equipment, and cooking
methods, but somehow
even that made my
mouth water. This book
reminded me of how
little I know and
made me thankful thatGOTTA
READ ’EM ALL
Check out
an extended
list of new
cookbooks
we’re loving at
bonappetit.com
/cookbooksHome – Fall Cookbooks