Bon Appetit – September 2019

(Martin Jones) #1

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SEPTEMBER 2019 – 49


FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK


PHOTOGRAPH BY HAYDEN SPEARS


East Meets Texas
At Houston’s Blood Bros. BBQ, actual brothers Robin and Terry Wong and pitmaster
Quy Hoang bring their Chinese and Vietnamese roots to Texas barbecue
by DANIEL VAUGHN

Away – Dish Decoded

1.


Brisket Fried Rice
When slicing brisket, Hoang
saves the burnt ends
for fried rice, his best-selling
side. The familiar peas,
carrots, and eggs are plenty
visible, but the unique tang
comes from Hoang’s secret
ingredient: kimchi.

3.


Thai Peanut Butter
Sticky Ribs
Barbecue purists, avert your
eyes. These pork ribs come
slathered in an umami-rich
blend of peanut butter,
ketchup, soy sauce, and
Thai red curry paste—with
chopped peanuts and Thai
chiles for texture and heat.

4.
Smoked Brisket
A Pitmaker offset smoker is
Hoang’s weapon of choice.
He bathes his beef in oak and
pecan smoke for more than
eight hours. The seasoning is
pure Texas: salt, pepper,
garlic, chipotle powder, and
a kick of cayenne.

2.


Smoked Turkey Banh Mi
A crusty-yet-fluffy baguette
from the French Riviera Bakery
down the street gets layered
with smoked turkey, house-
pickled daikon, jalapeños,
and a nice thick schmear
of Terry Wong’s house-made
chicken liver pâté.

5.


Thai Green Curry Boudin
Hoang makes curry sauce with
lemongrass and Thai basil,
then adds pork shoulder, pork
liver, jasmine rice, and sticky
rice. “I mix my rice right into
the curry when I eat Thai
food,” he says, “and that’s
basically what this boudin is.”
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