76
The Greatest
Creamed Greens
6–8 SERVINGS The key to these greens
lies in the heavy cream mixture, which
should be gloriously rich, salty, and
extremely garlicky. Once it gets added
to the wilted greens, it will dilute and
loosen up a bit, so it’s better to aim for
thicker rather than thinner.
¾ cup fresh coarse breadcrumbs
or panko
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1½ cups heavy cream
6 garlic cloves, smashed
¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
3 large bunches kale, mustard
greens, Swiss chard, spinach
and/or broccoli rabe (about
3 lb.), thick ribs and stems
removed, coarsely chopped
¾ cup crème fraîche
Toss breadcrumbs with 3 Tbsp. oil in
a large skillet; season with salt and
pepper. Set over medium-high heat and
toast, tossing often, until golden brown
and crisp, about 4 minutes. Set aside.
Bring cream to a simmer in a medium
saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic
and nutmeg; season with salt and
pepper. Simmer until reduced by half,
15–20 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat remaining 3 Tbsp.
oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy
pot (5.5-qt. or larger) over medium.
Add a large handful of greens and
season with salt and pepper. Cook until
slightly wilted and there’s room to add
more greens to pot. Add another large
handful of greens, season, and repeat
process until all of the greens have
been added. Continue to cook, stirring
often, until greens are bright green
and very tender and most of the liquid
released from greens has evaporated,
10–22 minutes, depending on
the greens you’re using; spinach will
release more liquid than kale.
Add cream mixture and crème
fraîche to greens and mix to coat
evenly. Taste and season with more salt
and pepper as needed. Cook just
until heated through, about 2 minutes.
Transfer greens to a bowl and
scatter reserved breadcrumbs over.
DO AHEAD: Greens and
breadcrumbs can be made 4 hours
ahead. Store separately, loosely
covered, at room temperature.
Reheat greens over low and top with
breadcrumbs just before serving.
Upside-Down
Apricot Tart
6–8 SERVINGS This tart can be
made in a cake pan or a cast-iron or
other ovenproof skillet. While this
is meant to be flexible, it is important
that the pastry on top be larger
than the circumference of whatever
pan you’re using (you’ll be tucking
it into the pan), as the pastry will
shrink considerably when baked.
¼ cup honey
¼ cup sugar
½ tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1 lb. apricots (about 6), halved
lengthwise, pits removed
1 sheet frozen puff pastry (one
14-oz. package or half of a
17.3-oz. package), thawed
All-purpose flour (for surface)
¼ cup raw pistachios, finely chopped
Whipped cream or vanilla ice
cream (for serving; optional)
Place a rack in middle of oven and
preheat to 425°. Cook honey, sugar,
salt, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small
saucepan over medium-high heat,
stirring occasionally, until caramel turns
dark amber in color (because of
the honey, it can be hard to tell when
the color changes; it should look like
maple syrup). Remove caramel from
heat and add butter and vinegar
(be careful; mixture will bubble up).
Stir with a wooden spoon or heatproof
rubber spatula to incorporate.
Pour caramel into a 9"- or
10"-diameter cake, tart, or springform
pan or skillet and swirl to evenly coat the
bottom. Arrange apricots, cut side down,
in pan, letting them overlap slightly
if needed. (Depending on the pan you
use, you may not need all of them.)
Unfold pastry and gently roll out on
a lightly floured surface just to soften
the creases and corners. Prick pastry
all over with a fork. Drape over pan,
then, using kitchen shears, trim to make
a circle that’s slightly larger than the
circumference of the pan (remember,
the dough will shrink as it bakes) and
tuck into pan.
Bake tart until pastry is puffed and
just golden, 15–20 minutes. Reduce
oven temperature to 375° and continue
to bake until pastry is deep golden
brown and fruit juices are bubbling,
15–20 minutes longer. Transfer tart to
a wire rack and let cool 10 minutes.
Invert a large plate over the top of
the pan. Using a dish towel or oven
mitts, flip tart over onto plate. Carefully
remove pan. Top tart with pistachios.
Serve tart with whipped cream or ice
cream if desired.
DO AHEAD: Tart can be baked 4 hours
ahead. Leave in pan at room temperature.
If caramel has set too firmly to release
from pan, heat in a 375° oven 5 minutes
to warm and loosen before turning out.
Though I used to be a pastry chef, I would rarely serve dessert were it not for
two things: (1) my desire to please those for whom it is nonnegotiable
(a.k.a. most people I invite over) and (2) my desire to place a proverbial and
sometimes literal cherry on top of an evening (do you get it?). I don’t mean
to send you down a YouTube rabbit hole trying to learn how to make a 17-layer
cake—you can go as big or as small as you have the physical and emotional
space for. A bowl of fruit on ice. A box of wafer cookies. An upside-down
apricot tart using store-bought puff pastry, say. There are few times where the
phrase “It’s the thought that counts” applies, and this is one of those times.
Yes, You
Need Dessert
(Sort of)
FOOD STYLING BY ALISON ROM
AN. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAM
INSKI. RECIPES ADAPTED W
ITH PERM
ISSION FROM
NOTHING FANCY: UNFUSSY FOOD FOR HAVING PEOPLE OVER
BY ALISON ROM
AN
(CLARKSON POTTER, AN IM
PRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM
HOUSE, LLC). COPYRIGHT © 2019. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
