Gambero Rosso – July-August 2019

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STREET FOOD IN NAPLES: THE BEST SANDWICHES


STUFFED WITH CLASSIC
RAGÙ OR WITH EGGPLANT
PARMIGIANA, WITH BRAISED
OCTOPUS "ALLA LUCIANA" OR
WITH BRACIOLE: THESE ARE THE
BEST SANDWICHES IN NAPLES
AND SURROUNDINGS.


In traditional village festivals, in the
villages of Campania holiday festivi-
ties did not begin until the Neapoli-
tan traders hadn’t arrived : carousel
people, street vendors, carnacuttari,
i.e the sellers of tripe and cooked
meats. The tradition of street food –
which plays a huge role in Naples –
has not completely disappeared, and
it’s still easy to come across old-time
shops and modern signs that repro-
duce the best of Neapolitan cuisine
in take-away format.


Think sfogliatelle, little pasta frittatas,
tortani rustic breads and fried pizza (or
the delightful pizza al portafoglio, fold-
ed in four and eaten on the go), Naples
is the kingdom of street food, but it’s
still the classic sandwiches that rule this
style. Sandwiches in Naples are a real
institution, they are street food stars,
stuffed with the best of local produc-
tion.
Here are the best ones in and around
the city according to the Street Food
del Gambero Rosso guide.

FRATELLI MASCOLO
In the city of pasta, even sandwiches
play a leading role: the authentic Grag-
nano panuozzo, to be precise, made
with pizza dough and stuffed in various
ways, depending on the season. Since
1995, siblings Ciro, Fiorenza and Lina
Mascolo have made this local special-

by Michela Becchi

ty their strong point, creating delicious
and never banal recipes. The “Confit” is
stuffed with sausage, black pork lard,
cherry tomatoes and provola cheese, for
example. The “Ron Ciccio” is filled with
fried artichokes “ndurat e fritt”, pancet-
ta, fiordilatte and a Parmigiano fondue.
There is also a lot of good pizza bread,
sold by weight.

PANINERIA CIRO MAZZELLA
For a tasty, informal lunch, with a simple
and exciting offer head to Panineria Ciro
Mazzella. This is where you go to taste
the famous panini, an institution since
the ’70s, filled with prime quality meats.
The bread is baked on a charcoal grill,
toasted and crisp, stuffed with porchet-
ta from Ariccia, scamorza cheese from
Agerola and eggplant parmigiana. There
are many other tasty specialties that can
satisfy even the most demanding palates.

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