Gripped – August 2019

(Ron) #1
Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret became the first climber ever, man or woman,
to win all six bouldering world cups in one season. It was
Garnbret’s 25 th world cup win. “My motivation was to win
every cup, this was a lifetime goal,” said Garnbret after her win.
“This is a level of dominance we’ve never witnessed and we
might never witness again,” said the ifsc commentator on the
livestream shortly after her win. Garnbret didn’t have a strong
semi-finals and said she was feeling some pressure going into
finals, but she finished strong and made history.

Montreal Collective Aims


to “Bring In the Girls”


with The B.I.G Initiative


The B.I.G “Bring In the Girls” Initiative is a not-for-profit orga-
nization with a mission to give women a bigger presence within
the climbing industry, to challenge the status quo and encourage
gyms to hire more women in central roles and to create a com-
munity where female-led projects can gain momentum and have
a meaningful impact on our sport and its culture. “The long-term
goal of The B.I.G Initiative is to mobilize female climbers across
the country and create a movement within the climbing industry,”
said Geneviève de la Plante. “We want to break down geographi-
cal barriers, gym or team loyalties and create a space for women
to connect with one another in order to educate and inspire each
other.” For more information, visit thebiginitiative.ca.

New 100-metre


Ontario Bolted Routes
The Eyeball is a big climbing wall in central Ontario near
Sudbury that’s seen spurts of development over the past few years.
The wall is more than 100 metres at its highest point and has a
number of climbs from 5. 4 to 5. 11 +. The drive from Toronto
takes just over six hours. Ontario ice climbing champs, Rebecca
Lewis and Nathan Kutcher, climbed two new 100 -metre three-
pitch 5. 11 bolted routes up solid rock. Conspiracy Theory 5. 11 +
heads up a technical dihedral to a small belay stance past 15 bolts.
The second pitch climbs steep rock on good holds to a high
crux with 14 bolts and the third pitch is a tricky 5. 10 + with 14
bolts. The Disruptor is another three-pitch 5. 11 that starts to the
right and crosses Conspiracy Theory. And Lord of Flies is a new
60 -metre 5. 11 that starts to the left of Conspiracy Theory.

Chamlang North Face Climbed
Chamlang is a 7 , 319 -metre peak in the Makalu-Barun National
Park in Nepal that has a big north face, which was the focus of a
Canadian expedition later this year. However, the intended 2 , 000 -
metre route was climbed by Czech climbers Marek Hole ˇcek and
Zdenˇek Hák, who received a 2018 Piolet d’Or for their first ascent
up Gasherbrum I, this spring. Canadians Tim Banfield, Quentin
Roberts and European Juho Knuuttila were planning to attempt
the peak this fall, supported by the John Lauchlan Award (jla).
The three climbers are still heading to the Himalayas this fall, but
their new objective is yet to be named at time of print.

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