Top local climber Stephane Lapierre described it as one of the
most beautiful multi-pitch routes in Quebec, so I rounded up some
partners to check it out. The wall is located by a big hydroelectric
dam called Bersimiss II, which was built by Hydro-Québec. After
a short ferry delay, we got there around midday. Once we arrived,
we realized the road was closed three kilometres before the trail-
head because the river was f looded by the dam. We ended up
crossing the river by walking on parts of the power station.
On the other side of the river, three kilometres of bushwhack-
ing was required, which took nearly three hours. The wall is an
impressive 400 metres of granite right over the dam. The rock is
sometimes pink, sometimes white, black or orange. There are
three main routes to the summit: a 10 -pitch 5. 9 / 10 trad, a 10 -pitch
5. 11 a/b slab and another long moderate. We choose the 10 -pitch
5. 11 a/b slab, which is called Bing Bang.
The route starts with a 5. 9 offwidth followed by a 5. 10 + bolted
slab. We then simul-climbed to reach the bottom of a stunning
slab. Next, we climbed four pitches of pure friction climbing
with micro-edges at 5. 11. There aren’t many rests, so it feels reallyPhotos: Climbing
Bing Bang above
Bersimis II Dam
in Quebecspicy because you get wicked leg cramps. There are a few tricky
mantels on shallow slopers. The bolts are spaced far apart, which
feels especially scary on such a remote route. After the slab pitches,
you head up the steep upper wall. We put the headlamps on and
finished the day with some long rappels.
There were a number of great-looking unclimbed features on
the upper wall, including a steep white dihedral. Quebec has many
long, remote routes that get few repeats. Bing Bang is similar to
long, techy slab routes in Squamish, but with far fewer people
around. It’s a great summer adventure.Kevin Duquette is a climber based in B.C.Story by Kevin Duquette
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