Gripped – August 2019

(Ron) #1

Pitch One: Start 15 m down and right of
Sisyphus on a bolted arête. Climb the arête
(stay on arête) past 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor
on a small ledge (5.8 22 m, six bolts).


Pitch Two: Scramble up a fourth-class
slab to another two-bolt anchor on the wall
beside a large, coniferous tree.


Pitch Three: Begin left of anchor. Climb up
to first bolt, then diagonally up right to an arête.
Follow arête upward to ledge with a dead tree
and two-bolt anchor (5.8 22 m, six bolts).


Pitch Four: Step right from belay, then climb
upward to the arête passing two bolts. At the
steep wall, clip a high bolt on the left and reach
for a jug. Pull up onto the face, then step
gingerly left to the arête. Follow the arête past
a tree with a cordelette to a two-bolt anchor
(5.9 35 m, eight bolts). Move belay 15 m up left
to a single bolt belay at the bottom of the slab.


Pitch Five: Climb straight up the pocketed
slab to a two-bolt anchor (5.7 35 m, eight bolts).


Pitch Six: Traverse right past a high bolt in the
wall to a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner,
trending right past three bolts to a good ledge
with two-bolt anchor (5.6 20 m, four bolts).


Pitch Seven: Climb up and right from the
belay to a bolt. Follow bolts as they meander up
though interesting features to a two-bolt anchor
on a ledge (5.10a 40 m, 13 bolts).


Pitch Eight: Climb up directly above anchor
into a groove. Trend leftward along a crack
feature up to a small, overhanging bulge.
Pull left over the bottom of the bulge, then up
to the arête. Follow arête diagonally rightward
to two-bolt anchor (5.9 35 m, 11 bolts).
Rappel the route from here or continue to
the large, treed terrace. A tree with a cordelette
on the terrace will allow you to get back to
the last bolted anchor.


Descent: Rappel the route from any pitch
with a 60 m rope. From the top of pitch seven,
rappel skier’s right to a separate rap anchor
on the wall at a small ledge. From there,
rappel to the top of pitch five. Rappel skier’s
left from the top of pitch five to make it to the
mid-route terrace (careful, it’s a rope-stretcher).
From the top of pitch four, make a short
rappel to the tree with a cordelette then
continue down the route. From the top of pitch
two, a single 60 m rope will get you skier’s
right to a small ledge one-metre off the
ground (again, careful, it’s a rope-stretcher).

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