Gripped – August 2019

Ropes

Black Diamond

9.4 $290

Black Diamond ropes are sleek, depend-

able, easy to handle and go the distance.

The 9.4 is designed to be used as a half or

twin rope. The sheath is burly and the dry

treatment will last many seasons. They

have obvious middle markers that stand

out in harsh conditions. The run over

rough stone with ease and can take a beat-

ing from cold weather without much wear.

Highly recommended.

Sterling

Fusion Ion R 9.4 $270

The Fusion Ion R 9.4 is one of the best sin-

gle ropes that you can bring into the alpine

and offers a lot of confidence for the 9. 0 mm

size. We recommend this lightweight rope

for multi-pitch alpine rock routes like

you’d find in the Bugaboos or Rockies.

The DryXP treatment makes it ideal for

climbs where you might encounter some

seasonal snow or ice. At 57 g/m, it’s one

of the lightest alpine single ropes out there.

Petzl

Paso Guide 7.7 $290

Petzl has been making high end ropes for

years and the Paso Guide is considered one

of their best for alpine climbing. It’s supple,

light and has a long-lasting dry treatment.

The middle marks are easy to find, which

helps for rappels. They’re certified for half

and twin use and weigh 42 g/m. One of

our favourite features is that the core and

sheath are bonded for more durability.

Mammut

Phoenix 8.8 $280

The Phoenix is a strong lightweight rope

that is used as a half or twin. One of the

best ropes in the list for ice and alpine with

its amazing dry treatment. If you’re drag-

ging a rope over a glacier for a long time,

you need it to stay dry because prussiks

work better when the rope isn’t soaked.

The colours pop on rock and snow, which

is good for late-day climbing. Theses ropes

make going light and fast in the alpine easy.

Edelrid

Skimmer Pro 7.1 $550/set

The Skimmer Pro can be used as half

and twin ropes, are ultralight and have a

durable dry finish. These 70 -metre ropes

are perfect for fast and light alpine missions,

long ice routes, glacier travel and ridge

routes. The sheath has a tight braid, but

they don’t feel stiff and are easy to handle

with gloves on. Be careful on rappels as

they stretch a lot. A top choice for summer

alpine routes and ice climbs.

Maxim

Unity 8.0 $245

The Unity is a long-time favourite rope

for the alpine season. The half/twin rope’s

treatment helps reduce drag over sharp

edges and gives excellent resistance to

abrasion. It’s one of the softest ropes on

this list, which helps with rope handling,

rappelling and long leads over complex

terrain. Overall a great all-round rope for

mountain environments.—Gripped

Different alpine climbs require different ropes,

from single-rope use on glaciers to half-ropes on

multi-pitch alpine rock routes, so always be sure

you bring the right line for the job. Here are some

of our favourite ropes for alpine climbing in 2019.

Edelrid

Skimmer Pro 7.1

Petzl Paso Guide 7.7

Black Diamond 9.4

Mammut

Phoenix 8.8

Maxim Unity 8.0

Sterling

Fusion Ion R 9.4

the rack