A
s a ifth-generation scion of Kolkata-based jewellery house Satramdas
Dhalamal, Raj Mahtani’s creative upbringing is a far cry from the
glamorous world inhabited by Bollywood’s original costume designer
and stylist, Manish Malhotra. At a recent show organised by the prestigiousLadies Study Group in Kolkata, the two designers converged to talk about a
lesser travelled bridal path for loyalists to follow.
Heavily inspired by the Mughal period, Mahtani spread his wings in the year
2000 with his eponymous label. “I was always amazed by the Mughal design
sensibility—the art, architecture, gardens, and the majestic jewels derived from
the Ottoman Empire,” says the designer. “I was in love with the opulence
and grandeur yet enamoured by the simplicity and purity of design. The idea
behind my jewels was to modernise this art form.” Combining over-the-top
stones with contemporary design elements, Mahtani creates an aesthetic of
restrained maximalism. Employing traditional
elements of the region like gold Siliguri work
and enamelling, Mahtani creates his signature
cascading loral necklaces and ornate chokers.
His jewels might be ostentatious in nature but
Mahtani’s world of aesthetics ensures that these
pieces seamlessly it into a bridal trousseau
as they do with the contemporary outits
designed by Malhotra.
Another common thread that links the
two together is perhaps their early aspiration
to become movie stars. While Mahtani quit
theatre to ind his creative low in bijoux,
Malhotra after a brief modelling stint went
on to design costumes for stars. “Very early in
life I knew I wanted to change the industry. I
knew I wanted to try my hand at ilms, and if I
could change the way costumes were presented
in ilms, I knew that I could make a name,”
asserted Malhotra during his interview with Mahtani. It is perhaps this young
ambition to stand out that led the designers to excel in their respective ields.
Malhotra who stepped into the spotlight when he won the irst ever Filmfare
Costume Award for Rangeela can be credited for creating a cult following with
his styles ranging from Kajol’s chifon saris to Kareena Kapoor Khan’s sequinned
deep-cut blouses. Gradually progressing into the bridal sphere, Malhotra has
built a diverse wardrobe ranging from soft, pastel organzas, to vibrant Madras
checks—splattered with intricate embroideries within modern silhouettes.
And this is why the juxtaposition of Mahtani’s traditional pieces with Malhotra’s
dream couture is a match made in bridal heaven. Together they are quick to
adapt to the changing demands of young, net-savvy brides. “Today’s brides are
very conident,” points out Malhotra. “They are on all social media platforms
and know their mind about styles, textiles, and handlooms.” Agreeing, Mahtani
suggests that brides should carefully curate their looks. “Initially, brides would
set aside jewellery and then have an outit done that goes with it. Things have
changed now; brides pick up a lehenga and want neckpieces to be designed around
it,” says Mahtani. While, he is happy to cater to these customisation requests for
his clients, Mahtani feels there is a need for synchronisation when it comes to
putting together a well-styled wedding look.
STYLE TIP
“Even as jewellery is
something you would
pass on to the next
generation, it is
important that it
synchronises with your
wedding look and
personality.”
— RAJ MAHTANI