REPAIR PRODUCTS
- Abatron abatron.com WoodEpox
and LiquidWood repair products - American Building Restoration Products
abrp.com Non-toxic strippers - American Rope & Tar tarsmell.com
Imported Swedish linseed oil, turpentine - Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty
waterputty.com Wood-repair putty - Eco-Strip eco-strip.com Infrared
paint strippers, tools - Franmar franmar.com Blue Bear
paint stripper with Safenol - Kilian Hardware kilianhardware.com
Spring bronze weatherstripping - Sarco Putty sarcoputty.com Dual
glaze & type M putty (also sold by
Abatron and SRS Hardware) - Sashco Sealants sashco.com
Big Stretch caulk - West System westsystem.com
Two-part epoxies for wood restoration
GLASS FOR RESTORATION
- Artisan Glass Works agwglass.com
Old Style window glass in fi ve grades - Bendheim Glass bendheim.com
Full and light Restoration Glass® - Hollander Glass hollanderglass.com
Multiple styles suitable for distinct
historic eras
SASH HARDWARE & PARTS
- Samson Rope samsonrope.com
Cotton sash rope with nylon core - SRS Hardware srshardware.com
Pulleys, chains & stackable sash
weights; stop bead adjusters
with hard pad and 80-grit sandpaper), I
was able to rip right through the remain-
ing layers on the fl at sections of the sash.
The dust collection is excellent and the
smaller, 90 cm head on the sander is abso-
lutely perfect for this sort of intricate de-
tail. Additionally, the triangle sanding pad
on the oscillating sanding setting allowed
me to get right into the corners without
doing any damage to the sash. With initial
sanding complete, I used scraping toolsand a heat gun where necessary on the re-
maining paint or putty caught in crevices
on the decorative profi les.Initial Repair Once the entire sash was
as free of paint as I could get it, I began to
repair and rebuild sashes that had begun
to more-or-less fall apart at the joints.
First I glued up any broken or split pieces
that hadn’t come completely free. Then I
cut fi ller strips from old salvaged pine Ifound in the attic. I carefully cut them to
size, but still needed to plane them a bit to
get them to fi t nice and snug. After I glued
the strips in place and clamped them to
cure, I planed and sanded them fl ush with
the surrounding sash.
Then I removed the wood pegs that
secured the mortise-and-tenon joints
together. In most cases, I was able to re-
move the old peg, clear away dirt, and re-
WE glue it in place. A few [text cont. on page 47]
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- Where pegs are missing, cut replacements
sized to fit the opening, slightly tapered with
a hand plane to ensure a tight fit. - After repairs to the frame are made using
old-growth wood, the joints are once again
solid; the author sanded everything until all
joints and pegs were flush and smooth. - Fill any remaining gaps, crevices, or rough
edges with a two-part wood filler, which can
be sanded as smooth as the wood itself. - The small, versatile heads on a multi-mode
random orbital sander are ideal for smoothing
out rough spots in tight places. - Use a little wood filler to ensure any
gaps around pegs are filled in.
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