The English Garden – September 2019

SEPTEMBER 2019 THE ENGLISH GARDEN 79

P

haraohs were entombed with them, the

Greeks praised them and in Pompeii

Romans grew them abundantly – in

fact, it was the Romans who introduced

onions to Britain. In short, it is dicult

to imagine life without the ubiquitous onion.

Bulb onions, as opposed to the slender bunching

types that include spring onions, can be harvested

now, after a spring planting. Of these, brown onions

are most common in the UK but red onions are now

increasingly popular. White onions grow best in hot,

dry conditions and don’t generally perform well here.

Meanwhile, lesser-known Welsh onions (Allium

fistulosum) are annuals that can be overwintered.

Sautéed with celery and carrot, onions form a

mirepoix, the basis of much European cooking,

but their varying shapes, flavours and sizes warrant

recognition. Caramelise red onions for a tart filling,

give them a quick pickle for a welcome astringency

in salads, or simply sweat them in butter until their

melting forms are as indiscernible as the gentle

flavour they bring to dishes of every kind.

Above After harvesting,

tie onions in bunches

and then leave them

to cure in an airy shed

or greenhouse.

Layers of Flavour

Refreshing in a tangy pickle, savoury in a stew, or slow-cooked to caramelised

sweetness, the versatile onion is an integral part of our culinary heritage

IN SEASON

WORDS

VIVIENNE HAMBLY

IMAGE

GAP/ROBERT MABIC