9EDITOR’S NOTEPHOTOGRAPH BY EVA KOLENKOwhich her Indian aunt taught her to
make (“Stacked in Your Favor,” p. 42).
We are grateful for and hopeful
about the way dishes and cuisines
can act as bridges among people
and destinations. Of course, what’s
still left to learn (and eat and cook)
is wonderfully limitless. So, let’s stay
curious. Think bigger. And extend—
and cross—more bridges.STACY ADIMANDO
Editor-in-Chief
Follow Stacy on Instagram:
@stacy_adimandoA well-traveled dish,
pad thai has been
interpreted by every
Thai takeout restau-
rant on the planet.
But the noodles as
made in their home
country are a trea-
sure. See the story
(and a salty, sweet,
crunchy recipe)
on page 32.custardy egg tarts and a comforting,
curried chicken and rice dish loved
by in-the-know visitors and locals
(Pang’s Cantonese parents cooked
it for him throughout his youth).
There is so much to celebrate, like
the tabbouleh and hummus that have
made their way into steakhouses in
Oklahoma, thanks to generations
of Lebanese-American immigrants
(“The Last Lebanese Steakhouse in
Tulsa,” p. 66). We share in the joy of
Sri Lankan cook Sumith Fernando
(“Canada’s Brisket Whisperer,”
p. 11), who is following his passion by
cooking Jewish-style smoked meat
in the Chinatown of a Toronto sub-
urb. And Priya Krishna invites us
around her Texan family’s break-
fast table to break bread, in the
form of potato-filled, ghee-griddled
parathas (whole-wheat f latbreads),WE CAN NEVER LEARN ENOUGH
about one another’s cultures.
Although there is beauty in our
individuality as nations, regions, and
families, making an effort to know
more about each other is the ultimate
path toward kinship and unity.
What we’ve already shared,
learned, and adopted from one
another’s food cultures worldwide
is a marvel. This issue celebrates
those migrations—the movement of
cooks, culinary ideas, and dishes—
across the map and throughout
history, and how they have made our
shared culinary experience richer.
In “Around the Fire” (p. 58), writer
Ya smi n Ka h n b e aut i f u l ly u np a c k s
the relationship between London’s
diverse population and its beloved
Turkish-run restaurants, dozens of
which span the city’s Hackney bor-
ough. Kahn’s focus is kebabs, those
tender, spiced grilled meats, and
her piece shows how widely Turkish
ocakbaşı—fireside restaurants—have
been embraced, to the point where,
she says, communing around the grill
is practically synonymous with eating
out with friends in London.
Some migrations are more com-
plicated, like the four centuries of
Portuguese colonialism in Macau that
birthed a layered, hard-to-define cui-
sine unlike any other (“Nothing Gold,”
p. 48). Writer Kevin Pang and pho-
tographers Dylan James Ho and
Jeni Afuso plunge us straight into
the heart of the glitzy city’s kitchens.
They especially laud its homestyle
cooking, like the region’s extra-Food Moves
Us Closer