CONTENTS
At Jamil’s steakhouse
in Tulsa, Oklahoma,
cabbage rolls and hum-
mus are right at home
alongside smoked pork
ribs. See p. 66
for story.PHOTOGRAPH BY DENNY CULBERT 3
48
Nothing Gold
The former Portuguese
colony of Macau has
evolved into a glitzy
casino town, but its
hybrid culinary past
endures in out-of-the-
way kitchens
BY KEVIN PANG
58
Around the Fire
With kebabs, stuffed
eggplants, and zuc-
chini fritters, London’s
Turkish grill houses bring
people together in a
polarized country
BY YASMIN KHAN66
The Last Lebanese
Steakhouse in Tulsa
Oklahoma’s capital was
once a hub for Leba-
nese immigrants, and a
century later, tabbouleh
and hummus still have a
place on the table
BY NAOMI TOMKY74
The Middlemen
Cocoa growers in
Tanzania have long dealt
with a difficult system of
middlemen, but a new
company is investing in
better practices
BY HILARY HEULER82
There and Back
After living for years in
Philadelphia, a group of
Mexican cooks and res-
taurant workers have
realized that their most
exciting opportunities
are back home in Puebla
BY SHAUN PETT90
At the Bayou’s Edge
In the face of climate
change and dramatic
land erosion, Vietnam-
ese shrimpers in New
Orleans are standing
their ground
BY ALLIE WISTFEATURES